ETG Paint Thickness Gauges
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Bill D
Hooked For Life
I recently got the ETG-A, doesn't work on aluminum and fiberglass. This is a very valuable tool when serious polishing is necessary. If the history of the vehicle is not known, the ETG will let you know how much paint is present. You can take instant readouts along a wide area of a panel as well as reach into tight spaces because the probe is connected to a wire.
If you plan on being in the market for buying a used car or a classic car, this tool will make any repainted surfaces stick out like a sour thumb. I even discovered a brand new car that had a paint film build about double the amount of an identical make and model. I found out this was a case of the car being repainted at the factory. I suppose something must have gone wrong during the first painting attempt.
I also confirmed a few cars that panels repainted. Their paint thickness was generally double and more the rest of the car so if you detect the repair it will be very obvious.
I have a blast using this thing. If you detail professionally this tool will show your clients how serious and committed you are to safely polishing the finish. You could even rig up a form and provide them a read out of their car, before and after the detail and while polishing. You can also keep a log of read outs during the polishing process so you know how much paint you are removing right away.
If you plan on being in the market for buying a used car or a classic car, this tool will make any repainted surfaces stick out like a sour thumb. I even discovered a brand new car that had a paint film build about double the amount of an identical make and model. I found out this was a case of the car being repainted at the factory. I suppose something must have gone wrong during the first painting attempt.
I also confirmed a few cars that panels repainted. Their paint thickness was generally double and more the rest of the car so if you detect the repair it will be very obvious.
I have a blast using this thing. If you detail professionally this tool will show your clients how serious and committed you are to safely polishing the finish. You could even rig up a form and provide them a read out of their car, before and after the detail and while polishing. You can also keep a log of read outs during the polishing process so you know how much paint you are removing right away.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I recently got the ETG-A, doesn't work on aluminum and fiberglass. This is a very valuable tool when serious polishing is necessary. If the history of the vehicle is not known, the ETG will let you know how much paint is present. You can take instant readouts along a wide area of a panel as well as reach into tight spaces because the probe is connected to a wire.
If you plan on being in the market for buying a used car or a classic car, this tool will make any repainted surfaces stick out like a sour thumb. I even discovered a brand new car that had a paint film build about double the amount of an identical make and model. I found out this was a case of the car being repainted at the factory. I suppose something must have gone wrong during the first painting attempt.
I also confirmed a few cars that panels repainted. Their paint thickness was generally double and more the rest of the car so if you detect the repair it will be very obvious.
I have a blast using this thing. If you detail professionally this tool will show your clients how serious and committed you are to safely polishing the finish. You could even rig up a form and provide them a read out of their car, before and after the detail and while polishing. You can also keep a log of read outs during the polishing process so you know how much paint you are removing right away.
If you plan on being in the market for buying a used car or a classic car, this tool will make any repainted surfaces stick out like a sour thumb. I even discovered a brand new car that had a paint film build about double the amount of an identical make and model. I found out this was a case of the car being repainted at the factory. I suppose something must have gone wrong during the first painting attempt.
I also confirmed a few cars that panels repainted. Their paint thickness was generally double and more the rest of the car so if you detect the repair it will be very obvious.
I have a blast using this thing. If you detail professionally this tool will show your clients how serious and committed you are to safely polishing the finish. You could even rig up a form and provide them a read out of their car, before and after the detail and while polishing. You can also keep a log of read outs during the polishing process so you know how much paint you are removing right away.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Sheesh, Bill...you sound as excited as I was when I borrowed one of these 
, and I er...drew a little picture of my car and mapped out the readings (was doing some heavy polishing). As you said, really easy to find repainted panels, as they come out about double. I'm really impressed that you bought this tool--have you got any data regarding how much film thickness comes off to remove a scratch or a swirl? What is the resolution of the device? Does it read out in tenths of a mil or hundredths?
, and I er...drew a little picture of my car and mapped out the readings (was doing some heavy polishing). As you said, really easy to find repainted panels, as they come out about double. I'm really impressed that you bought this tool--have you got any data regarding how much film thickness comes off to remove a scratch or a swirl? What is the resolution of the device? Does it read out in tenths of a mil or hundredths?Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Sheesh, Bill...you sound as excited as I was when I borrowed one of these , and I er...drew a little picture of my car and mapped out the readings (was doing some heavy polishing). As you said, really easy to find repainted panels, as they come out about double. I'm really impressed that you bought this tool--have you got any data regarding how much film thickness comes off to remove a scratch or a swirl? What is the resolution of the device? Does it read out in tenths of a mil or hundredths?
, and I er...drew a little picture of my car and mapped out the readings (was doing some heavy polishing). As you said, really easy to find repainted panels, as they come out about double. I'm really impressed that you bought this tool--have you got any data regarding how much film thickness comes off to remove a scratch or a swirl? What is the resolution of the device? Does it read out in tenths of a mil or hundredths?
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Setec Astronomy said:
I haven't polished yet since taking readings and I suspect if I notice any real difference afterward it's going to be after using a rotary with multiple pads.
It says here it measures to .00001 inch and rounds that off to ..0001 for a stable display.
It measures a coating thickness from 0 to 40 mils. When calibrated at 30 mils it will be accurate at 10, 5, and 1 mil
You may have noticed how the readings on any given panel are generally not consistent across every area. This is normal. I ran and got my form with the readings from the Audi. As an example, the four corners of my hood measure 4.3 mils while the center measures 4.5
The corners and rim of my trunk lid measure 5.1 mils while the center measures 4.2 mils.
The roof measures between 4.3 and 4.5 mils while the doors are generally consistent between 5.2 to 5.6 mils. This probably means the doors received a heavier coat of paint, perhaps painted separately from the main body of the car, or were repainted given the rest of the body also falls within that 4.4 to 4.6 mil range. :nixweiss
It's definitely a work tool and "entertainment tool" all in one. :2thumbs:
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Setec Astronomy said:
I haven't polished yet since taking readings and I suspect if I notice any real difference afterward it's going to be after using a rotary with multiple pads.
It says here it measures to .00001 inch and rounds that off to ..0001 for a stable display.
It measures a coating thickness from 0 to 40 mils. When calibrated at 30 mils it will be accurate at 10, 5, and 1 mil
You may have noticed how the readings on any given panel are generally not consistent across every area. This is normal. I ran and got my form with the readings from the Audi. As an example, the four corners of my hood measure 4.3 mils while the center measures 4.5
The corners and rim of my trunk lid measure 5.1 mils while the center measures 4.2 mils.
The roof measures between 4.3 and 4.5 mils while the doors are generally consistent between 5.2 to 5.6 mils. This probably means the doors received a heavier coat of paint, perhaps painted separately from the main body of the car, or were repainted given the rest of the body also falls within that 4.4 to 4.6 mil range. :nixweiss
It's definitely a work tool and "entertainment tool" all in one. :2thumbs:
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
GSRstilez said:
As has been mentioned in other threads about this, the ETG measures the full film build, both color and clear (in the case of BC/CC). It is really impossible to tell how much CC there is, therefore impossible to tell if you have exceeded the clear threshold. Jimmy Buffit has talked about this. The best you can do is to measure when you start, and not take off any more than...I think it is .5 mil...but that's assuming that no one has been there before you...and as mentioned in the recent Anthony Orosco thread, they may polish out defects at the factory (so even if you have a new car that you convinced the dealer not to prep, it may have spots that have reduced clear). So, it's kind of a crapshoot, but the ETG certainly gives you a lot more info than...nothing.
Bill, I did find the same wide variation on panels that you did. I did, however measure significant reduction in thickness as I was working on acid rain/bird spots on my beater with a cutting pad/DACP. I'm not really sure I removed as much as the reading...because I think if I did my clear would have failed already! I will find my notes and post up how much I measured...if animes2K doesn't feel we are hijacking his thread.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
GSRstilez said:
As has been mentioned in other threads about this, the ETG measures the full film build, both color and clear (in the case of BC/CC). It is really impossible to tell how much CC there is, therefore impossible to tell if you have exceeded the clear threshold. Jimmy Buffit has talked about this. The best you can do is to measure when you start, and not take off any more than...I think it is .5 mil...but that's assuming that no one has been there before you...and as mentioned in the recent Anthony Orosco thread, they may polish out defects at the factory (so even if you have a new car that you convinced the dealer not to prep, it may have spots that have reduced clear). So, it's kind of a crapshoot, but the ETG certainly gives you a lot more info than...nothing.
Bill, I did find the same wide variation on panels that you did. I did, however measure significant reduction in thickness as I was working on acid rain/bird spots on my beater with a cutting pad/DACP. I'm not really sure I removed as much as the reading...because I think if I did my clear would have failed already! I will find my notes and post up how much I measured...if animes2K doesn't feel we are hijacking his thread.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, the acid rain alone probably ate into the clear in those spots significantly enough to show a difference between it and the rest of the area.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, the acid rain alone probably ate into the clear in those spots significantly enough to show a difference between it and the rest of the area.
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
Ron Ketchum (ValuGard) advocates removal of NO MORE THAN .3 mil. Removing more than that will eventully cause clearcoat failure. It won't be noticd right away, as you would 'only' be compromising the outermost surface of the clear, but that is where the UV protection occurs...
So, the ETG is a marvelous tool, but think of it as way to establish a baseline reading. The actual number (7.3 or 4.2, etc.) doesn't really mean much, but now you begin to measure what your process is removing.
I've mentioned before that the ETG is a great marketing tool (along with a xenon light, microscope, and IR Temp guage) that demonstrates to your client the degree of your professionalism.
Good Luck!
Jim
So, the ETG is a marvelous tool, but think of it as way to establish a baseline reading. The actual number (7.3 or 4.2, etc.) doesn't really mean much, but now you begin to measure what your process is removing.
I've mentioned before that the ETG is a great marketing tool (along with a xenon light, microscope, and IR Temp guage) that demonstrates to your client the degree of your professionalism.
Good Luck!
Jim
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
Ron Ketchum (ValuGard) advocates removal of NO MORE THAN .3 mil. Removing more than that will eventully cause clearcoat failure. It won't be noticd right away, as you would 'only' be compromising the outermost surface of the clear, but that is where the UV protection occurs...
So, the ETG is a marvelous tool, but think of it as way to establish a baseline reading. The actual number (7.3 or 4.2, etc.) doesn't really mean much, but now you begin to measure what your process is removing.
I've mentioned before that the ETG is a great marketing tool (along with a xenon light, microscope, and IR Temp guage) that demonstrates to your client the degree of your professionalism.
Good Luck!
Jim
So, the ETG is a marvelous tool, but think of it as way to establish a baseline reading. The actual number (7.3 or 4.2, etc.) doesn't really mean much, but now you begin to measure what your process is removing.
I've mentioned before that the ETG is a great marketing tool (along with a xenon light, microscope, and IR Temp guage) that demonstrates to your client the degree of your professionalism.
Good Luck!
Jim
There goes Bill again--with another one of his wonderful toys. :grinno: Now how can I convince the wife that this is the last detail tool I will ever buy? :LOLOL
How is the ETG-A different from the models animes2k listed? I did a search at ValuGuard's website, and can't find your model listed at all.
How is the ETG-A different from the models animes2k listed? I did a search at ValuGuard's website, and can't find your model listed at all.
There goes Bill again--with another one of his wonderful toys. :grinno: Now how can I convince the wife that this is the last detail tool I will ever buy? :LOLOL
How is the ETG-A different from the models animes2k listed? I did a search at ValuGuard's website, and can't find your model listed at all.
How is the ETG-A different from the models animes2k listed? I did a search at ValuGuard's website, and can't find your model listed at all.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Mine did come from Auto Int. The ETG-A is called the "ETG-1" for some reason there. :nixweiss
This is not to be confused with the pricier ETG-I, "I" standing for "industrial"
Here's the manufactuer's website listing the variety of ETG models
This is not to be confused with the pricier ETG-I, "I" standing for "industrial"
Here's the manufactuer's website listing the variety of ETG models
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Mine did come from Auto Int. The ETG-A is called the "ETG-1" for some reason there. :nixweiss
This is not to be confused with the pricier ETG-I, "I" standing for "industrial"
Here's the manufactuer's website listing the variety of ETG models
This is not to be confused with the pricier ETG-I, "I" standing for "industrial"
Here's the manufactuer's website listing the variety of ETG models