imported_Scrace
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I decided to build a sign post and hang my own business sign while documenting the process. Hopefully this will inspire others to do the same and even top it. :bigups
Here's A Link To The Guide (50+ Photos & Detailed Steps): How To Build And Hang A Business Sign | Incredibly Detailed
How To Build And Hang A Business Sign
I decided to add a business sign to my residence so clients had an easier time finding my location. I live on a well traveled road and figured this would also be an excellent cost effective way to advertise and let people passing by know that I run a detailing business from my home.
I am by no means a professional at making signs but figured this wouldn’t be too hard of a task. Hopefully this guide will help others in similar situations and will help people who are on the fence about doing it themselves gain the confidence by seeing how easy it really is.
I went with a 20” x 14” x .5” , PVC sign made by a local sign shop. It was much cheaper than metal (almost as durable) and ended up costing me less than $65 for the sign, which I thought was a great deal. The rest of the supplies for this project ran about $100. It’s possible to get them for less but I bought everything stainless steel I could so I wouldn’t have rust issues later on. I already had all the tools necessary to complete the project. It might be in your best interest to pay someone to put a sign in for you if you don’t have the majority of the tools, or if you do buy the tools think about it as an investment for future projects.
There are many ways to building and putting in a post but I thought this way was easy and didn’t involve ANY digging. Modify any of the supplies, tools and processes as you see fit. Again, I’m not a professional and you follow this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens whatsoever while you attempt to make a sign by following this guide.
Let’s Get Started:
Supplies:
(2) 4″ x 4″ x 8″ Lumber (Pressure Treated Optional)
30″ Speed Post (or similar)
4″ x 4″ Post Cap
Out-Door Semi-Gloss Paint
Stainless Steel Quick Links
Stainless Steel Anchor Shackles
Stainless Steel Eye Hooks
Lag Bolts (2″ – 3″ long)
Silicone Caulking
Wood Screws (2 1/2″ – 3″ long)
Shims
Wood Glue
Washers (Optional)
Spray Paint (Optional)
Tools:
Philips & Flat Head Screw Drivers
Electric Drill
Hammer
10-Pound Hammer
Wood Saw (Electric Makes It Easier)
Wood Chisel
Wood Rasp
Sand Paper
Rubber Mallet
Straight Edge
Measuring Tape
Level
Drill Bits (Sizes According To Screws Used)
Countersink Drill Bit
Pencil
Wrench & Sockets
Step 1: Check Zoning Regulations
Before you start anything make sure your property is zoned correctly to have a business and/or a sign. It’s going to be different for everyone. Your town/city’s website should have information on this or call your town/city’s planner.
Step 2: Sketch Blue Print
Sketch out your post and sign before you start cutting wood. Make sure you know the dimensions of all the pieces and gaps. It makes everything much easier and keeps you organized.
Step 3: Check Utility Lines
I believe most utility lines are 5 feet underground but make sure you call 811 before you dig or start to put the sSpeed Post into the ground. Their website: 811 – Call Before You Dig.
Step 4: Find Spot For Post
Check your zoning regulations on the distance signs must be from the road and other structures. Mine was 5 feet, but I decided to put the post 14 feet off the road so visibility to exit the driveway was unchanged. If I had to do it again, I would put it around 11-12 feet as 14 feet back was overkill.
Mark the spot with some spray paint.
Also check your line of sight from your car while trying to exit your driveway. Keep in mind customers will be coming out of your driveway frequently and you want a long sight line for people who are unfamiliar with the area.
Step 5: Drive Post Into The Ground
The best way to drive the Speed Post into the ground is using a 10-Pound Hammer and an old piece of 4″ x “4. I was surprised how easy this was and it only took a couple of minutes.
Starting position.
Check the level periodically to make it’s going in perfectly vertical.
Almost half way. I had to move the Speed Post over because I hit a rock at this level before.
Almost there.
Final product and barely broke a sweat.
View from above.
Step 6: Measure Notches For Post Intersection
Measure 3 1/2 inches for the notches on both the horizontal and vertical posts. The length on either side of the notch should already be figured out from your blue print. On the horizontal post I left 4 inches on one side and 26 inches on the other (Total length of 33 1/2 inches). On the vertical post I left 4 inches on one side and 52.5 inches on the other (Total length of 60 inches). The depth of the notches should be 1 3/4 inches.
Length: 3 1/2 inches. Depth: 1 3/4 inches.
Step 7: Cut Notches Out of Posts
Use a wood saw to cut the two ends of the notch. Then cut several times between the end points. Use a chisel to remove the pieces of wood between the end points.
Saw and setup used to cut the notches.
All the cuts made prior to chiseling.
Wood chisel used.
Make sure the flat part of the chisel is facing the flat end of the notch.
Drive the chisel through with the hammer.
After the first round.
All of the cuts have been cleared.
Use the chisel to clear out any ridges.
Step 8: Test Fitment & Refine Notches
After cutting and chiseling both notches test the fitment of the two posts. If you measured correctly and made the proper cuts they will fit nice and snug. Be careful when removing the posts after the test fitment, you don’t want them to twist or have too much force applied to the shorter (weaker) end and snap the post.
Fits perfectly but the posts need to sit deeper.
Once you’ve freed the posts after the test fitment use a wood rasp to make adjustments where necessary to achieve better fitment. I only needed to increase the depth slightly on both posts to achieve the fit I desired.
Nice and level after rasping. You can also sand this if you want to get crazy, but it’s not necessary.
Do one more test fitment and if everything checks out you are almost ready to glue and join the posts together.
Step 9: Angle Horizontal Arm End
I decided to cut the end of my horizontal post at a 60 degree angle for aesthetic reasons. Make sure when doing this you measure the length of your total horizontal post from the top of the post not the bottom.
The edge of the wood was very sharp after cutting so I decided to cut it off about an inch.
Horizontal post finished and ready for the next step.
Step 10: Apply Wood Glue To Notches
Supplies for the next couple of steps.
Apply the wood glue to both notches on both the vertical and horizontal surfaces inside the notch. Don’t go crazy with the glue. The more you use the more you’ll be cleaning up later.
Clean, smooth notches ready for glue.
Glue.
Glue.
And more glue.
Use a rubber mallet so you don’t damage the wood while fully joining the two posts.
Step 11: Drill & Screw Posts Together
Mark two spots to drill and place screws on both posts. Make sure you use opposite diagonals for each post.
Eye balled two good places to drill.
Drilling. Use a bit complimentary to the size of your screws.
It’s best to countersink the screws.
Both holes drilled. Ready for screws.
Electric Drill and then I used a hand screw drivers to tighten them down all the way.
Final product. Now move on to the other side, drilling on the opposite diagonal.
Step 12: Drill Holes For Eye Hooks
Measure and then drill the holes for your eye hooks or other choice of hardware in the bottom of the horizontal post.
Holes drilled. Ready for eye hooks.
You can use a screw driver to easily screw in the eye hooks.
Both eye hooks placed and ready for the sign to be hung.
Step 13: Drill Holes For Sign Hardware
Drill the holes for your sign. Depending on the thickness of your sign and the material you’ll either drill down into the sign from the top or from the side (like I had to do).
Holes drilled. If you place a piece of wood under the sign you can drill straight through without worrying about the back side of the hole getting messed up. If you don’t have a piece of wood just drill until the tip of the bit goes out the back side and then flip the sign over and drill back so you have a clean hole on both sides.
Step 14: Test Fitment & Level
Now the exciting part. Take your sign out and see how it fits and looks. This is where you can check the initial level of the post.
Step 15: Shim, Level & Screw Post To Speed Post
Shim the post to get it perfectly level. Drill the holes for the lag bolts. Screw in the lag bolts and tighten everything up.
Only needed one shim to level the post.
The results of over torqueing a lag bolt.
Score the shim with a knife and break it off.
Double check to make sure everything is level and no more adjustments are needed.
Level Check.
Perfectly Level. Ready to be painted.
I was very happy with the results.
Close up of hardware.
Another angle.
Step 16: Paint or Stain Post
I chose semi-gloss paint because it’s more durable and easier to clean than the other options. I ended up doing 3 coats with a white paint + primer mix by Valspar.
Three coats of paint later.
Step 17: Attach Post Cap
After the paint has dried use silicone caulking to attach the post cap. I just ran a bead around the inside of the edge of the cap and stuck it on. Hold it down for about a minute to make sure everything sticks.
Cap Installed.
Step 18: Add Sign To Post & Level
After the paint has dried attach your sign. Check the level and adjust the eye hooks to make it perfectly level.
Final product.
Here's A Link To The Guide (50+ Photos & Detailed Steps): How To Build And Hang A Business Sign | Incredibly Detailed
How To Build And Hang A Business Sign
I decided to add a business sign to my residence so clients had an easier time finding my location. I live on a well traveled road and figured this would also be an excellent cost effective way to advertise and let people passing by know that I run a detailing business from my home.
I am by no means a professional at making signs but figured this wouldn’t be too hard of a task. Hopefully this guide will help others in similar situations and will help people who are on the fence about doing it themselves gain the confidence by seeing how easy it really is.
I went with a 20” x 14” x .5” , PVC sign made by a local sign shop. It was much cheaper than metal (almost as durable) and ended up costing me less than $65 for the sign, which I thought was a great deal. The rest of the supplies for this project ran about $100. It’s possible to get them for less but I bought everything stainless steel I could so I wouldn’t have rust issues later on. I already had all the tools necessary to complete the project. It might be in your best interest to pay someone to put a sign in for you if you don’t have the majority of the tools, or if you do buy the tools think about it as an investment for future projects.
There are many ways to building and putting in a post but I thought this way was easy and didn’t involve ANY digging. Modify any of the supplies, tools and processes as you see fit. Again, I’m not a professional and you follow this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens whatsoever while you attempt to make a sign by following this guide.
Let’s Get Started:
Supplies:
(2) 4″ x 4″ x 8″ Lumber (Pressure Treated Optional)
30″ Speed Post (or similar)
4″ x 4″ Post Cap
Out-Door Semi-Gloss Paint
Stainless Steel Quick Links
Stainless Steel Anchor Shackles
Stainless Steel Eye Hooks
Lag Bolts (2″ – 3″ long)
Silicone Caulking
Wood Screws (2 1/2″ – 3″ long)
Shims
Wood Glue
Washers (Optional)
Spray Paint (Optional)
Tools:
Philips & Flat Head Screw Drivers
Electric Drill
Hammer
10-Pound Hammer
Wood Saw (Electric Makes It Easier)
Wood Chisel
Wood Rasp
Sand Paper
Rubber Mallet
Straight Edge
Measuring Tape
Level
Drill Bits (Sizes According To Screws Used)
Countersink Drill Bit
Pencil
Wrench & Sockets
Step 1: Check Zoning Regulations
Before you start anything make sure your property is zoned correctly to have a business and/or a sign. It’s going to be different for everyone. Your town/city’s website should have information on this or call your town/city’s planner.
Step 2: Sketch Blue Print
Sketch out your post and sign before you start cutting wood. Make sure you know the dimensions of all the pieces and gaps. It makes everything much easier and keeps you organized.
Step 3: Check Utility Lines
I believe most utility lines are 5 feet underground but make sure you call 811 before you dig or start to put the sSpeed Post into the ground. Their website: 811 – Call Before You Dig.
Step 4: Find Spot For Post
Check your zoning regulations on the distance signs must be from the road and other structures. Mine was 5 feet, but I decided to put the post 14 feet off the road so visibility to exit the driveway was unchanged. If I had to do it again, I would put it around 11-12 feet as 14 feet back was overkill.
Mark the spot with some spray paint.
Also check your line of sight from your car while trying to exit your driveway. Keep in mind customers will be coming out of your driveway frequently and you want a long sight line for people who are unfamiliar with the area.
Step 5: Drive Post Into The Ground
The best way to drive the Speed Post into the ground is using a 10-Pound Hammer and an old piece of 4″ x “4. I was surprised how easy this was and it only took a couple of minutes.
Starting position.
Check the level periodically to make it’s going in perfectly vertical.
Almost half way. I had to move the Speed Post over because I hit a rock at this level before.
Almost there.
Final product and barely broke a sweat.
View from above.
Step 6: Measure Notches For Post Intersection
Measure 3 1/2 inches for the notches on both the horizontal and vertical posts. The length on either side of the notch should already be figured out from your blue print. On the horizontal post I left 4 inches on one side and 26 inches on the other (Total length of 33 1/2 inches). On the vertical post I left 4 inches on one side and 52.5 inches on the other (Total length of 60 inches). The depth of the notches should be 1 3/4 inches.
Length: 3 1/2 inches. Depth: 1 3/4 inches.
Step 7: Cut Notches Out of Posts
Use a wood saw to cut the two ends of the notch. Then cut several times between the end points. Use a chisel to remove the pieces of wood between the end points.
Saw and setup used to cut the notches.
All the cuts made prior to chiseling.
Wood chisel used.
Make sure the flat part of the chisel is facing the flat end of the notch.
Drive the chisel through with the hammer.
After the first round.
All of the cuts have been cleared.
Use the chisel to clear out any ridges.
Step 8: Test Fitment & Refine Notches
After cutting and chiseling both notches test the fitment of the two posts. If you measured correctly and made the proper cuts they will fit nice and snug. Be careful when removing the posts after the test fitment, you don’t want them to twist or have too much force applied to the shorter (weaker) end and snap the post.
Fits perfectly but the posts need to sit deeper.
Once you’ve freed the posts after the test fitment use a wood rasp to make adjustments where necessary to achieve better fitment. I only needed to increase the depth slightly on both posts to achieve the fit I desired.
Nice and level after rasping. You can also sand this if you want to get crazy, but it’s not necessary.
Do one more test fitment and if everything checks out you are almost ready to glue and join the posts together.
Step 9: Angle Horizontal Arm End
I decided to cut the end of my horizontal post at a 60 degree angle for aesthetic reasons. Make sure when doing this you measure the length of your total horizontal post from the top of the post not the bottom.
The edge of the wood was very sharp after cutting so I decided to cut it off about an inch.
Horizontal post finished and ready for the next step.
Step 10: Apply Wood Glue To Notches
Supplies for the next couple of steps.
Apply the wood glue to both notches on both the vertical and horizontal surfaces inside the notch. Don’t go crazy with the glue. The more you use the more you’ll be cleaning up later.
Clean, smooth notches ready for glue.
Glue.
Glue.
And more glue.
Use a rubber mallet so you don’t damage the wood while fully joining the two posts.
Step 11: Drill & Screw Posts Together
Mark two spots to drill and place screws on both posts. Make sure you use opposite diagonals for each post.
Eye balled two good places to drill.
Drilling. Use a bit complimentary to the size of your screws.
It’s best to countersink the screws.
Both holes drilled. Ready for screws.
Electric Drill and then I used a hand screw drivers to tighten them down all the way.
Final product. Now move on to the other side, drilling on the opposite diagonal.
Step 12: Drill Holes For Eye Hooks
Measure and then drill the holes for your eye hooks or other choice of hardware in the bottom of the horizontal post.
Holes drilled. Ready for eye hooks.
You can use a screw driver to easily screw in the eye hooks.
Both eye hooks placed and ready for the sign to be hung.
Step 13: Drill Holes For Sign Hardware
Drill the holes for your sign. Depending on the thickness of your sign and the material you’ll either drill down into the sign from the top or from the side (like I had to do).
Holes drilled. If you place a piece of wood under the sign you can drill straight through without worrying about the back side of the hole getting messed up. If you don’t have a piece of wood just drill until the tip of the bit goes out the back side and then flip the sign over and drill back so you have a clean hole on both sides.
Step 14: Test Fitment & Level
Now the exciting part. Take your sign out and see how it fits and looks. This is where you can check the initial level of the post.
Step 15: Shim, Level & Screw Post To Speed Post
Shim the post to get it perfectly level. Drill the holes for the lag bolts. Screw in the lag bolts and tighten everything up.
Only needed one shim to level the post.
The results of over torqueing a lag bolt.
Score the shim with a knife and break it off.
Double check to make sure everything is level and no more adjustments are needed.
Level Check.
Perfectly Level. Ready to be painted.
I was very happy with the results.
Close up of hardware.
Another angle.
Step 16: Paint or Stain Post
I chose semi-gloss paint because it’s more durable and easier to clean than the other options. I ended up doing 3 coats with a white paint + primer mix by Valspar.
Three coats of paint later.
Step 17: Attach Post Cap
After the paint has dried use silicone caulking to attach the post cap. I just ran a bead around the inside of the edge of the cap and stuck it on. Hold it down for about a minute to make sure everything sticks.
Cap Installed.
Step 18: Add Sign To Post & Level
After the paint has dried attach your sign. Check the level and adjust the eye hooks to make it perfectly level.
Final product.
