Collinite 476 tips?

F

fordf150

New member
Just ordered a tin of 476. Have never used this product before and will be using it as my winter wax. Any tips, tricks to applying/removing this wax?



I'm used to working with BFWD which is idiot simple and don't expect that 476 will be quite as easy.
 
Accum will sign in on this :). I think he likes to top 845(its liquid little bro)



476 is awesome, there are a couple ways to approach it. I tend to do the 2+2 of applying THIN, THIN, THIN, THIN, THIN, to one panel, then another, returning then to the first to remove and so on.



I have in the past on prepped paint done an entire vehicle and removed just as easily. The biggest issue is with it going on way too thick and you spending a good 3 months removing it. I personally prefer a whole car apply and remove



I think I read that Scottwax has recently acquired some, so I think his and Accumulators tips will be more useful because Accumulator I believe loves it, and Scott is a little new to it.



Whatever you choose, I would apply and remove to a couple panels first, there is nothing worse than knowning its on too thick or you waited too little or too much and you have to fight it off. Otherwise the look is nice a glowy, with great warmth, durability is top 2 IME
 
fordf150 said:
Just ordered a tin of 476. Have never used this product before and will be using it as my winter wax. Any tips, tricks to applying/removing this wax?
Click to expand...



Slightly damp (with water) applicator. Thin application. Fog the surface with your breath when buffing off the residue.



Don't try to layer it lest you get pseudo-holograms, and they can be awful. Wait at least a couple weeks before doing a second coat and try to apply that one very gently to avoid solvent action. Or just wait and refresh it when the beading/slickness/whatever starts to change.



autoaesthetica said:
Accum will sign in on this :). I think he likes to top 845(its liquid little bro) ..
Click to expand...



Yeah, I like a "Collinite sandwich" of 845 then 476S then more 845, redoing the 845 as needed. Not that 476S isn't good all by itself; I had weird reasons to do the 845 as a base on a few of my vehicles, those might not apply to anybody else.



But the 845 layers a lot easier than 476S does, and can also fix the pseudo-holograms if you get them from messing up the 476S layering. (No, I don't know how the 845 can do that without having solvent action issues with regard to layering; I quit worrying about it when it became obvious that the stuff a) does fix that problem and b) does layer for me).



476 is awesome, there are a couple ways to approach it. I tend to do the 2+2 of applying THIN, THIN, THIN, THIN, THIN, to one panel, then another, returning then to the first to remove and so on..



I have in the past on prepped paint done an entire vehicle and removed just as easily. The biggest issue is with it going on way too thick and you spending a good 3 months removing it. I personally prefer a whole car apply and remove.
Click to expand...



Roger that on the THIN THIN THIN :xyxthumbs I just apply to the whole vehicle before I buff it off. NO problems for me.



BUT...I do use a W-O-W-O when I use 476S on rubber and plastic. Maybe that should be a "don't try this at home, kids!" kindof thing, but it did work fine for me.
 
tom p. said:
Yeah, don't leave that stuff sitting too long or you'll need a grinding wheel to remove it.
Click to expand...



Kinda surprises me to hear you say that, you and I usually have identical experiences but I've never had that issue with 476S.



Only time I think I've ever had it period was with some M16 I missed on the A8, only noticed it weeks later when Accumulatorette returned from a long trip; man was that stuff tough to get off!
 
Thanks for the tips.



Curious, have any of you ever tried applying 476 with a DA and a polishing pad to help spread it really thin?



I saw a write up over at Megs online where they experimented using a DA to apply their new Ultimate Paste Wax and it turned out well. Obviously UW and 476 are completely different animals, but I wonder if anyone has tried it?



Oh.. and one more thought. Could the finger swipe test be used with 476 as with other waxes/sealants to determine if ready to buff off?



Thanks for the replies in advance.
 
I am a recent 476 convert. I applied and removed the product by hand. It was a bit of a challenge to remove even on a car I waxed two weeks prior using another product. In any event, I may wax the car again in October before the cold weather really sets in.
 
Yeah, I think the first time it was pretty much my fault - - I let the stuff sit for about 1/2hr and spent the rest of the afternoon attempting to remove it. I find it to be a lot of work even if you let it cure for just about 5 or 8 minutes...at least when compared to similar sealants.
 
I have had mixed experiences with 476. I have always had good durability, but the application and removal experiences have been different. The best way is to definitely apply it super thin. I have never had an issue removing it when it has been applied thin. I have also applied it too thick. It has buffed off easily from some panels, but incredibly hard from others. Let it haze [but don't let it dry], and remove it.
 
You can use a DA such as a Porter Cable to buff this in; however for the work involved it is not worth it. I have tried this a few times using a final finish pad such as the megs finesse foam pad, LC red pad, etc. The trick is to heat the can just enough to loosen the stuff up, then you take a putty knife and scrape it out. Then, you put the paste on the pad and buff it in. If done properly you get the real thin coat you need, but again a foam applicator that is damp is much faster (JMO). 476 website has application suggestions and methods as well here is the tech sheet should you care http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/Product-Tech-Sheets-PDF/TTech476pdf.pdf Since it is a pure wax it does well as a top coat over M07 (Show Car Glaze). I work one panel or two at a time. Finger swipe is somewhat applicable to this product. Hope this helps.
 
specv said:
You can use a DA such as a Porter Cable to buff this in; however for the work involved it is not worth it. I have tried this a few times using a final finish pad such as the megs finesse foam pad, LC red pad, etc. The trick is to heat the can just enough to loosen the stuff up, then you take a putty knife and scrape it out. Then, you put the paste on the pad and buff it in. If done properly you get the real thin coat you need, but again a foam applicator that is damp is much faster (JMO). 476 website has application suggestions and methods as well here is the tech sheet should you care http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/Product-Tech-Sheets-PDF/TTech476pdf.pdf Since it is a pure wax it does well as a top coat over M07 (Show Car Glaze). I work one panel or two at a time. Finger swipe is somewhat applicable to this product. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...



Thanks.



It's interesting that they recommend working an area of 2' x 2' only before letting it haze and buffing out. They make it seem like the stuff dries ultra quick...



I assume a slower speed on the DA (2-3) would be about right correct?
 
When doing 476S by machine I use speed 4 on the PC and also with my Griot's. I might've turned it down to 3-3.5 with the Griot's last time, can't really remember. But no issues as long as I kept the "thin" thing in mind.



I absolutely do not do small areas before buffing off. I suspect they recommend that because of the way most people use goofy-thick applications.



Yeah, the finger-swipe test works fine as an indicator. No, it's not an especially fast-flashing product IME.



specv said:
Since it is a pure wax it does well as a top coat over M07 (Show Car Glaze).
Click to expand...



Yeah, it works fine over glazes/etc. Kinda weird IMO how it does that OK but can do the pseudo-hologram mess when you try to layer it... solvent action can be a funny thing :nixweiss
 
Loooong time lurker with a question. I was planning to do KAIO and then 476, but will the solvents in 476 strip/react/not be ideal with KAIO?
 
babalu said:
Loooong time lurker with a question. I was planning to do KAIO and then 476, but will the solvents in 476 strip/react/not be ideal with KAIO?
Click to expand...



Welcome to Autopia! Well, Welcome to Active Participation at any rate :D



The KAIO/476S combo works fine. If the 476S did mess with the stuff KAIO leaves behind (and I don't believe that it does) you'll never know it since the 476S is so much more durable and leaves a "Collinite look as opposed to a KAIO look" anyhow.



Eh, I use 476S over much more fragile glazes/etc. than that anyhow, no problems.
 
The stuff can dry quick on a hot day with direct light. About 2 or 3 is plenty fast on a DA. I forgot to mention another method you can try is applying a small amount to the panel your working on and buffing it in, but just remember to prime the pad first and during. Getting back to cure time I do not think it is as much as how quick it drys but more of a method of removal. It kind of reminds me of show car glaze, not in the sense of the product itself, but the best method of removal. If you let this product dry it will be a royal PIA to remove and it will streak. Save yourself the headache follow the others advice, by hand, damp applicator, one panel, wipe and go. It is not tought to work with, and by far is the best durable carnuba based waxed out there.
 
specv said:
The stuff can dry quick on a hot day with direct light...If you let this product dry it will be a royal PIA to remove and it will streak. Save yourself the headache follow the others advice, by hand, damp applicator, one panel, wipe and go..
Click to expand...



Yikes, I'd sure hate to be waxing in direct (sun)light.



Maybe we're working under very different conditions (I'm in a climate-controlled shop), but I just never have that "PIA to remove" :nixweiss When I do a wipe-on-wipe-off type application it compromises the durability a bit, but yeah, the 476S lasts pretty long even when used that way and it *is* a quick and easy method all right.



Ya know, I even let Pinnacle Souveran set up/dry before I buff it off. Experimenting with it, I once let it sit for *hours* and it still buffed off easy as could be. This was after Mike Phillips and I had a good discussion about whether one should let wax dry before buffing or not (note that there *are* waxes that shouldn't be allowed to dry...but the only one I can think of is Victoria). But again, maybe environmental factors are making all the diff :think:
 
Got a chance to use the 476 today. Initially I was a little concerned because the temps today barely made it to 60 degrees and thought that it might cause some issues, which it didn't.



After opening the tin I noticed that this stuff is very dense and so I used a hair dryer to soften it up some just prior to applying it to my foam applicator. I tried to prime the pad and work it into the foam then work a tad more into the pad before starting. I should first mention that the vehicle was washed, clayed and IPA wipe down. I wanted my first use with this stuff to be on clean paint. I applied to one section then went on to another then back to buff off the previous. Using overlapping strokes I worked it in evenly and what I consider to be a thin covering. Wait time before buffing was roughly 5-10 minutes until a visible haze developed. Surprisingly it came off without incident using one MF for initial wipe and another for final wipe. I even experimented a little with one section letting go a little longer and while there was a little more grab to the MF it still came off ok and with no issues.



Finally, I haven't used a Carnauba in a long time and it certainly has a different look than BFWD (which I normally use). I would say a bit less overall gloss and noticeably less slickness, but not bad. I'm not sure how to describe the look, but it came out good and if the durability is every bit as good as it's reputation, I will use this again as a winter wax. Going to be using it again next week on another car so we'll see how that one goes as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top