I was recently in a wreck and had my front end particaly redone. My hood was repainted after a dent was hammered out and noticed today in direct sunlight that there are buffer trails all over it. How hard is it to remove them with a PC? My strongest products are SSR2.5 and DACP. The shop said it takes 60 days to cure so I have time to get products if needed.
Buffer Trails from Hell
- Thread starter Beason
- Start date
roadmaster_Tx1
New member
its not too hard, just make sure u wash and clay the vehicle properly and use a pc. You have the right polishes. Make sure you work the polishes in completley.
imported_GregCavi
New member
hit it with the lightest polish first. THey arent always the hardest to remove. Start with maybe an SSR1 if you have it, and if it doesnt cut it (literally!) then move up. My product of choice woudl be either menzerna FPII or optimum polish.
Greg
Greg
Accumulator
Well-known member
I wouldn't necessarilly wait for the paint to finish curing, as it'll be harder then. I've done it both ways, and unless the fresh paint is so soft that you keep micromarring it, I'd probably fix them now (especially since you're not using a rotary).
Buffer trails are the classic example of "swirls"; actually, these are the only *truly accurate* use of "swirls", it's what the word really refers to to those of us who care.
Just another form of marring, like light scratches. Sometimes they're a pain to get out, usually a) on hard paint and b when there was heat involved with putting them *in*. But quite often they're not that hard to polish out.
I'd expect the #83, followed by something milder, will take care of them. But yeah, you might try something milder first and see if that'll do it.
Buffer trails are the classic example of "swirls"; actually, these are the only *truly accurate* use of "swirls", it's what the word really refers to to those of us who care.
Just another form of marring, like light scratches. Sometimes they're a pain to get out, usually a) on hard paint and b when there was heat involved with putting them *in*. But quite often they're not that hard to polish out.
I'd expect the #83, followed by something milder, will take care of them. But yeah, you might try something milder first and see if that'll do it.
imported_UnsanePyro
New member
Ihave the same problem actually.
I spoke with someone from Poorboys, and they said that the SSR line is safe to use on fresh paint. I used a little bit of SSR1 with a hand applicator to try it out, and it worked great, and that was a few weeks after the repaint.
I spoke with someone from Poorboys, and they said that the SSR line is safe to use on fresh paint. I used a little bit of SSR1 with a hand applicator to try it out, and it worked great, and that was a few weeks after the repaint.
Beason said:
That depends on how they mixed the paint, if they added hardeners, what ype of paint, brand, etc.
I've had paint come out both ways, really soft at first and then it becomes rock hard and almost unpolishable, or it stays so soft that breathing on it will mar the paint.
I can count on one hand how many repaints I've come across where the paint is right in the middle.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I wouldn't be quite that trusting of the bodyshop 
The paint manufacturers all say to wait between 2-4 months, so I'd just go with "at least three months" before waxing.
And yeah, it's fairly safe to assume that the paint will be harder in a month. Maybe that means you want to correct it now, maybe it means you want to wait. There's "soft" and then there's *SOFT* if you know what I mean (and there's "harder" and *HARDER* too).
The paint manufacturers all say to wait between 2-4 months, so I'd just go with "at least three months" before waxing.And yeah, it's fairly safe to assume that the paint will be harder in a month. Maybe that means you want to correct it now, maybe it means you want to wait. There's "soft" and then there's *SOFT* if you know what I mean (and there's "harder" and *HARDER* too).
White95Max
New member
I would just try to fix the hood right now, and see how it goes. If you keep micromarring the hood when polishing with a light pad/polish combo, just wait to do the rest. But I'd bet you'll see drastic improvements in the hood and you'll decide to polish the whole car.
GTScott
New member
If one were to attack some nasty buffer trails in the paint of a Benz, would you prefer the FPII or SR1? I planned to just use the PC on them. What type of pad would be best? I have messed with them a little bit and not had any luck. I am trying to avoid taking the rotary to these. I think my main concern is which pad to use. Any insight?
-GT
-GT