Budnik wheels - 6061 T6 aluminum

V

vegan2

New member
I have some Budnik wheels on my 55 Chevy that are made out of 6061 T6 aluminum. Although they look pretty good from a few feet away, up close they have light scratches and are not as shiny as I'd like them to be.



Question - what process/products would produce awesome results? The dealer stated that a non abrasive billet polish should be used and I understand that, but I've had no luck eliminating the scratches - sort of like a swirl look.



Any input will be appreciated.
 
Optimum Metal Polish works well, you may need to use a buffer with a 3" pad to really get some progress on the swirls.
 
High quality billet will show the results of less than prefect technique.



The most flaw-free finish I've found with billet comes from using a high quality polish with a rubber nitrile glove. I'm guessing it's your applicator or removal towel that's causing the marring you see. What are you applying and removing with?



Try putting a nitrile glove on and scooping a little polish on to your finger tips. Rub a small area until the product turns sufficiently black, then wipe away lightly with a new, quality, microfiber towel. Do not let the polish dry, and do not use lots of pressure.



Let us know how that area comes to the surrounding area. BTW, I'll put our Billet Metal Polish up against any other polish made. And, there's no such thing as a non-abrasive metal polish.
 
Scottwax said:
Just a finger across the wheel would be abrasive.
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Thanks, but I know nothing - the 'lead' to find a non-abrasive polish was from the wheel manufacturer. Just shows that input can be unuseful even from manufacturers.



But, I do appreciated the input, nonetheless.
 
forrest said:
High quality billet will show the results of less than prefect technique.



The most flaw-free finish I've found with billet comes from using a high quality polish with a rubber nitrile glove. I'm guessing it's your applicator or removal towel that's causing the marring you see. What are you applying and removing with?



Try putting a nitrile glove on and scooping a little polish on to your finger tips. Rub a small area until the product turns sufficiently black, then wipe away lightly with a new, quality, microfiber towel. Do not let the polish dry, and do not use lots of pressure.



Let us know how that area comes to the surrounding area. BTW, I'll put our Billet Metal Polish up against any other polish made. And, there's no such thing as a non-abrasive metal polish.
Click to expand...



I would have to say that I am a pretty big fan of the billet polish. Sure is an expensive little pot. But a little goes a long way. sometimes I like to use the "wet" polishes. Adams had a really good combo.



But polishing sure does eat up the MF's. Tend to just throw them away except wheels can really create quite a pile!
 
Like others have stated, use a QUALITY metal polish with a 3 inch buffing pad to apply the polish to the wheels.



For removal I always mix up soap water in a spray bottle, spray the wheels down and rewash them with an old but good microfiber towel to remove the polish. I have noticed that this is a lot easier and will remove excess product.
 
when i got my budniks i could see the polishing marks left by the factory. have never really tried to make them look perfect (no marks) as they are wheels. but i do like the mothers billet polish. for quick touch up i use quick shine by metal wax (used to have it in a spray bottle). also like english custom metal polishes.
 
So, were you able to eliminate the polishing marks? I realize that they are just wheels - but, expensive wheels and high quality - so, why not at least be able to have them look close to perfect? Now, perfect is often unattainable - but, close to perfect or at least the best they can look is my goal.
 
fergnation said:
I would have to say that I am a pretty big fan of the billet polish. Sure is an expensive little pot. But a little goes a long way. sometimes I like to use the "wet" polishes. Adams had a really good combo.



But polishing sure does eat up the MF's. Tend to just throw them away except wheels can really create quite a pile!
Click to expand...



So, that's another subject - how does one clean up MF's without destroying the fiber, etc.? When used for polishing wheels, mine end up a mess and washing with soap doesn't eliminate all the blackness. Seems like there should be a way to 'save' MF's towels since they are so expensive, relatively speaking.
 
vegan2 said:
So, were you able to eliminate the polishing marks? I realize that they are just wheels - but, expensive wheels and high quality - so, why not at least be able to have them look close to perfect? Now, perfect is often unattainable - but, close to perfect or at least the best they can look is my goal.
Click to expand...



nope. but never really tried to get rid of the machining marks. can get rid of most the polishing marks. i just keep them shinny and clean.



for the mf i have cheaps one that i use for polishing. as i use them i throw them in a bucket with pad cleaner or apc so they can soak a little. i wash polishing mf separate from my good ones. if turning them black bothers you just by some black ones.
 
forrest said:
High quality billet will show the results of less than prefect technique.



The most flaw-free finish I've found with billet comes from using a high quality polish with a rubber nitrile glove. I'm guessing it's your applicator or removal towel that's causing the marring you see. What are you applying and removing with?



Try putting a nitrile glove on and scooping a little polish on to your finger tips. Rub a small area until the product turns sufficiently black, then wipe away lightly with a new, quality, microfiber towel. Do not let the polish dry, and do not use lots of pressure.



Let us know how that area comes to the surrounding area. BTW, I'll put our Billet Metal Polish up against any other polish made. And, there's no such thing as a non-abrasive metal polish.
Click to expand...



My report - major success! Used my hand, in nitrile gloves to apply Mothers Billet Polish (man, is that expensive), removed product with a clean MF towel and practically all the marks are gone - it's very near a mirror finish - I'm sold on this process.



By the way, I tried the Mothers product on my real (Halibrand) magnesium wheels (cobra replica) - just on a small section and it appears to work as well. Also, it's my understanding....



From How to polish aluminum wheels



"But first, if they are magnesium alloy (mag alloy) you can forget the polishing bit unless they contain less than 20% magnesium. I don't care what any other polish manufacturer tells you. Magnesium is white and will not polish. If anyone tells you they have a mag alloy polish, it's an aluminum polish. Your mag wheels will come clean with a wash, and if you have used an acid or they are oxidizing you can clean them and remove the oxides with polishes, but magnesium doesn't shine."



So, Mothers has a Mag & Aluminum Polish - is it, therefore, really only an Aluminum polish since magnesium can't be polished or do you disagree with the above statement? Is it also true that since magnesium doesn't polish, all one is doing is cleaning them, even when using your product? If the above statement is true, what is the best 'cleaner' for magnesium wheels? Thanks.
 
If you are ever interest in getting rid of the marks, use the process and product noted above - it actually works and works well. I've no idea of how long it will last.



By the way, what kind of car do you have the Budnik wheels on?
 
vegan2 said:
So, Mothers has a Mag & Aluminum Polish - is it, therefore, really only an Aluminum polish since magnesium can't be polished or do you disagree with the above statement? Is it also true that since magnesium doesn't polish, all one is doing is cleaning them, even when using your product? If the above statement is true, what is the best 'cleaner' for magnesium wheels? Thanks.
Click to expand...



Magnesium can be polished, but it oxidizes really fast, so don't expect your polish effort to last long.



Our Mag & Aluminum Polish can be used on magnesium, aluminum, and other alloys. As you found, Billet Metal Polish is a much finer polish and can achieve a flaw free finish when used in the proper manner.



I can't address the website's comments you posted because we didn't write them. Magnesium does not shine in the manner that polished aluminum (or billet aluminum) does. It will have a duller, more greyish appearance. I would only use soap and water on a magnesium surface, and dry them well afterwards to prevent spotting.
 
I have used almost all of the aforementioned products with great success. I haven't tried the Optimum polish yet,but I will someday when my stash of metal polishes gets thinned out somewhat.



A real "sleeper" metal polish is the Diamond Brite Truck Box polish from Lowes. I was very impressed with the results I got using it with the Mothers PowerCone. It made my billet wheels and valve covers look very nice. Mothers Billet and the offerings from English Custom are outstanding metal polishes,but the Diamond Brite is right there with them or maybe even better IMO.



I have dismissed the nitrile glove method in the past,but I may have to try it. My English Custom polishes came with a glove,but I've never used that method.
 
I have used dry buffing rouges for issues such a light scratches in ALUMINUM.



I would use a die grinder and and buffing bobs. Presto. Aluminum is harder to cut down without alot of rpm.
 
buffing bob ie Seven Felt Polishing Cones - Detailing Tools - Tools - Griot's Garage

die grinder ie of an electric one FREE SHIPPING — Makita Die Grinder — 1/4in., Model# GD0601 | Grinders + Stands | Northern Tool + Equipment

air powered die grinders are easier to find then electric ones. most of the borg's carry some sort of air powered die grinder. draw back to the air powered is you need a pretty big compressor to run it. draw back to the electric ones is they are harder to find (may have to order), generally cost more, and limited selection.
 
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