Wet-Sanding/Restoring Headlights...

rmccall6

New member
(note, this is a procust review and i have this same post there too but this forum gets alot more trafic.)



I cant go on to tell you about my experience with AutoInts ABC wash system without sounding like a detailing mishionary. Recently, before i ordered the stuff, there have been many Dawn/ABC debates and this is NOT one of them. After taklking to many about Dawn, i didnt really like the idea of using it on your paint, but i DO realize that once a year isnt gonna do much harm. Well, ABC is a three step wash system, of (A), "Acid Neutralizer", (B) "Alkaline Neutralizer", (C) "PH7 Shampoo". The first step is an alkaline solution designed to completely strip the car of waxes, sealents, oils, films ect, making the paint squeaky clean. It also neatralizes any acids present in th pores of the paint as a result from bird bombs and lot stains. Step B is a mild buffered acid solution desinged to work similar to clay, lostening and removing inductrial fallout and ferrious metal perticles. It also neutralizes alkalines in the pores of the paint, from hard water spots and ect. The third step is just a good, no non-sense PH balanced car wash that returns the car back to its normal PH and is great for everyday use. My test cdar was my moms gold BMW 330 convertable, a color that looks dingy and green when dirty and bright, and warm when fully detailed. It was pretty dirty to begin with. I mixed the A in a bucket w/ one gallon of water and 16oz of product. This provided my with just enough solution to go over the whole car with re-wetting, but for an SUV you mught want to use 2 gallons. Afer biulding up some nice suds in the bucket, i used one of CMAs chennile wash mits and bathed the whole car in the solution. The idea is to aply it to the whole car, let it dwell for about 5-7 min, then rinse of all while keeping the body wet. It whent on easily and i used the dwell time to clean one wheel/tire with EF HI. I re-wet the paint with the A and rinsed it off a few minutes later. Imidiatelly I noticed a difference, the car was not only clean but looked re-freshed in a way, with no films or grime on the car. Next I applyied the B, even though the car didnt have too much contamination (had a fair amound on the horizontals) just to test it out. You use the solution strait from a sqirt bottle, no diluting on a fairly dry surface. I used a dry, separate chennile mitt to spread it. In the dwell time i cleaned another wheel/tire combo. When applied it foams up a little but I made sure to wipe over the surface after about 2 minutes with a slightly damp (not wet) mitt to prevent drying. It rinsed off fairly easily. Finnaly, i rubed the car with some of the car wash, which was much easier than normal because it was clean. Once dried, the car looked better then it did when it was fully detailed last time! It looked very clean, and the B removed contaminants just as well as clay, and neutralized the paint which clay doesnt do. You still need clay for some stuborn overspray, but the B worked suprisingly well, the car felt squeeky clean and smooth. And another pluss it took about 50min to do!. Im very happy with this stuff and higly recomend that others try it out, its awesome. The car was ready for an easy app. of AIO, Vinylex on the tires, and cleaned the windows and the car looked the best it has ever looked. The ABC system is quite cost efective at about $15 for each gallon of product (A,B will last about 12 washings the C about 64)
 
Brad... a couple of questions. You put the A on and let it sit for 5-7 mins, but sprayed it a little durign that time so it didn't dry? And the B, did you only do the horizontal surfaces? I remember reading that you shouldn't let it drip down the sides as it might cause streaking. I would like to use it on my convertible...are you aware of any problems A might cause to a vinyl roof? or I guess I could just be careful not to apply it to the vinyl....



H
 
When you mix "A" in the bucket, you saturate you mitt and spread it over the car cleaning your mitt when it gets dirty, just as you would a regular wash except you cover the whole car not just peacemeal, panel by panel. To prevent drying, you just re-wet your mit with the solution and go over the car again, this not only re-wwets the surface but provides some agitation to help the grime come off. For B, you DRY the horizontals only (because now with no sealent/wax, the water can tend to pool on the surface, and you dont want too much excess water mixing with the acid based "B"), but you APPLY it to the whole car. The instrucitions say this and I would definately want to decontaminate the whole car. The produts may streak if let to dry, but if they dont you wont encounter any streaking. To re-wet the B, you can either use a spray bottle filled with water or what i did, wet your mitt, and then wring it out thuroghly and wipe the car down again. Remember, use a separate mitt for ewach product. No i didnt encounter any problems with vinyl, but dont purposely apply it there.
 
thats one of those reviews that someone will link any other postings asking about ABC to.....to be known as the the definitive guide to using ABC.... very thorough buddy....:up
 
I'm usimg the ABC system on my dad's old Buick this weekend , it will be my first time using the products wish me luck. Laters.
 
How much ABC did you get and about how much did it cost? I'm going to help a friend of mine do his brand new Mercedes SUV soon and may want to get some ABC to try on it. Have to see his new vehicle first to see if it needs it. It is currently about 6000 miles away from me right now.



He is going to try Zaino on it, to see if he likes that better than what he has been using on his now-traded Tahoe (Meguiar's #20).
 
I bought a gollon of each and it cost about $15 per gallon. I ended up using 16oz of A, about 4 oz of B, and 2 0z of C, so its pretty cost effective and it does a better job than clay IMO. I knew that it was easier and more time efficient but it was kinda late and i dint have much time to really evaluate the finish. Today I did though and the finish was smooth and slipery, and looked great! I higly recomend the stuff, saves time, and gets great results. Again, I sound like a detailing mishionary in the Dawn debate, but Im not. This stuff isnt just a wax stripper, but a full deap cleaning system for your paint that also stops acids that have seeped into the clear from continuing to damager you paint, literally eating it away so it makes you feel really secure afterwards.:up
 
There is a HUGE difference between non-clear-coated plastic headlights and the clear-coated ones, from the standpoint of restoration!

I have spent hours correcting clear-coated GM headlights and they came out "OK"...

These Ford Taurus (non-clear-coated) were a piece of cake... start-to-finish... 20 minutes.

PROCESS: (As Todd recommended to me, "I tend to treat plastic headlights just like paint." Good advice!):biggrin:

Wet-Sanded with 800/1500/2000... keeping it very wet.
Polished with PC/4" LC Orange/M105 for 2 minutes on speed 6.
Polished with PC/4" LC White/M205 for 1 minute, speed 5.
Applied one coat of Zaino ClearSeal.
Done.

BEFORE:

IMG_4597.jpg


WET-SANDING:

IMG_4600.jpg


AFTER WET-SANDING:

IMG_4601.jpg


POLISHING with M105:

IMG_4602.jpg


AFTER:

IMG_4603.jpg


IMG_4605.jpg
 
Not to hijack Bill, but I used essentially the same thing on my parent's van

Wet-Sanded with 800/1500/2000... keeping it very wet.
Polished with PC/4" LC H2O Cyan/M105 for 2 minutes on speed 6.
Polished with PC/4" LC H2O Tangerine/M205 for 1 minute, speed 5.

12 years old and abused
IMG_0826.jpg


IMG_0824.jpg


Lovin' the DA :D
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Camera wasn't entirely focused and I couldn't get all of the 12 year old pitting removed but you can see the amount of light that passes through is significantly greater.
IMG_0819.jpg


IMG_0854.jpg


These are the easier to correct ones. I sealed them with KAIO when I finished them.
 
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