Tips on detailing white cars?

I

imported_Solution Finish

New member
I detailed a white car today and man was it hard to see how much AIO I put down and not to mention where. Are there any tricks to help see or did I just work under p!ss poor lighting conditions. I guess when I put the SG on I'll break out the white cane with the red tip. :cool: Thanks for your suggestions.
 
I know what you mean. My 325i is white and I've never bothered to SG it.



With AIO I just try to work in as much light as possible while still staying in the shade. Put your head down RIGHT next to the paint and you can see where you haven't buffed off the AIO. I usually apply way too much of it so it's easy to see.
 
I can't help you there. I have the same problem with S100. I have to look at the paint at an extreme angle to make sure I covered every inch of the section I'm working.
 
I know what you mean... What I do is to follow the suggestions on the "Autopia Zaino Manual" and develop a little regimen and adhere to it every time I work on the car. For my car, it's

Roof

-left-side: front to back

-right-side: front to back

Hood

-left-side: front to back

-right-side: front to back

Front quarter-panel

-left

-right

Left front door to rear quarter panel

Right front door to rear quarter panel

Rear gate



etc., or any way that you like. I used to do "clockwise" starting from the hood...



Most often I would put down at least 2-3 layers every time I worked on my car, which definitely should have every surface "covered." However, I do stash a couple of fresh MF towels in the trunk afterwards just to catch the spots that I might have missed.



Hope to see other regimens that others practice.



Aloha!



:wavey
 
Its a huge issue seeing SG on white. I apply it in the shade in my garage and then look down the side of the car toward the open garage door to spot the haze. It seems to work well that way. The only other thing I can suggest is just to feel it with your fingers and look for the areas that grab. It really is a job for a blind man at that point. White is tough with SG. Most light colors are like that.
 
I new to the board and new help with some of your abbrevations like SG and AIO. I have a white ///M3 so maybe I can help.
 
I recently used SG on a white car, and I noticed if you work in very small sections, you can see what you have covered. If it hazes too quickly, you cannot tell where you have put it on, unless you put on too much. Actually, I worked in my garage with the door open and a 150 watt light, and I could see ok. In more light, it was harder to see. Also, how the paint feels gives it away. The paint feel soooooo smooth when you remove the SG. Also, I have noticed the same thing Scottwax said about S100. If you are putting on "just enough", it is very hard to see where you are. But when you pull that car out into the sun, once you have removed it, put on your sunglasses.:shocked
 
Welcome, NY Kid.



As far as seeing product on white, I wonder if Lynn will see this post (uses Z on a white Jag).



I find that fogging the surface with my breath not only helps me see the product, but also provides a little moisture that aids in smear-free removal.
 
Well, shucks, Accumulator. Wish I did have a tip. But I have exactly the same problem when applying Z -- it's darn hard to see, both when applying and removing. Your tip sounds intriguing, though. Are you saying the two areas (one with product and one without) will "fog" differently?
 
Lynn said:
Your tip sounds intriguing, though. Are you saying the two areas (one with product and one without) will "fog" differently?
Click to expand...
Well, I'm not Accumulator, but I do the same thing when I'm applying SG to my silver car. I fog it up when both applying AND bufffing. Yes, you can tell if there is product applied by the way it fogs because completely buffed product/paint will fog up perfectly evenly, while if there is any product still on there it will look "streaky" and show the lines in the direction in which you applied.



I've found this is useful in spot checking for 100% KSG buffing (don't do it over the whole car :p) if a bit time consuming. I can't take credit for inventing this idea, but try to advocate it when I can. It really helps with lighter paints and when you're trying to apply it as thin as possible.



Oh what the heck! Here's a link to my ridiculously meticulous SG checking/buffing method just because it's more illustrative: :o http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12556
 
:bigups Thanks for the details. And I went to that thread -- your write-up is wonderful, practical, and Autopianly anal. :p I gotta go home now so I can try it. ... Ooops! No, can't do that. Jag's 140 miles away, in the shop. :(
 
milani said:
Autopianly Anal! Should that be a new acronym added to the list? AA :nixweiss
Click to expand...
Somehow that phrase just doesn't feel good when you try to let it roll off your tongue.... :p



And thanks Lynn...... I think. :D
 
Thanks for the welcome guys. Have any of you tried Griots garage products? I started using them when I picked up my white ///M3 in oct. I just used Griots garage fine hand polish and best of show wax on my every day '99 elantra. Its grey. The products actually gave the color depth and one of the best wet looks I have ever seen. I did the ///M a couple months ago and used the clay bar and best of show wax and got a wet look aswell. The car actually looked like it had an extra coat of clear on it. And that was just one coat. I'm going to do it again soon. Do you think I should strip the old wax of or just apply the products on top of it. The car hasent been in the elements.
 
Btw, what are you using to dry the car and remove polish? Name of product and where it can be purchased. Thanks again.
 
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