Residue from polish sling (M105 to be exact)
- Thread starter 454Casull
- Start date
wannafbody
wannafbody
I've read that M105 can be a bear to remove after it dries. Remove it ASAP. Ultimate Compound doesn't seem to have that issue.
Any compound will have this issue, to a various degree. Generally, the more aggressive the polish and the more work into it, the worse the splatter is to remove. M105 is bad, Powergloss is bad, even M205 can be more stubborn than it should. I find that the fine splatter caused by using the KBM is extra hard to remove as it is too thin to "break off" the paint, as pure M105's splatter would. Also, the harder the paint is to begin with, the worse the splatter.
Even worse than splatter, is dust! It gets everywhere and just lingers around the car until after a wash.
To remove, you can use IPA, or ONR mix. I like to use something like Top Inspection or Meg's #34 (favorite for this). Clean towels also help as they will get clogged quickly with the amount of residue. Some of it will also come off during a final wash, if you wash the vehicle after compounding. Of course, clay is the best option for stuff that is really hard to remove.
Good luck!
Even worse than splatter, is dust! It gets everywhere and just lingers around the car until after a wash.
To remove, you can use IPA, or ONR mix. I like to use something like Top Inspection or Meg's #34 (favorite for this). Clean towels also help as they will get clogged quickly with the amount of residue. Some of it will also come off during a final wash, if you wash the vehicle after compounding. Of course, clay is the best option for stuff that is really hard to remove.
Good luck!
dmw2692004
New member
Clay may mar the surface post polish. Try ONR mix and a plush towel.
imported_jayhkr
New member
454Casull said:
Take a bottle, fill it with 50/50 IPA/water, squirt on, wipe off with MF towel. When I say squirt, I mean douse, also make sure the MF if completely saturated. I made the rookie mistake (just once) of lifting the pad off the car before it was completely stopped and man will I NEVER do that again. That stuff gets everywhere, even on panels I still am having problems figuring out how it got there. But I just used my IPA mixture and went to town. To me, it was a lot easier than claying.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Dried M105 residue can be very tenacious, so yeah...best to get it off before it dries and to tape/cover/etc. areas where you don't want to deal with it. I use a lot of plastic sheeting when doing a major correction with M105, time well-spent IMO.
Otherwise, I find that PrepWash works better than IPA (for a lot of other jobs too
) and that sometimes a pretty potent wash is required if you want to get it off without risking reintroducing a lot of marring. No, plain water won't work well IME, and even steam can be iffy.
Oh, and remember that the dried M105 residue is still very abrasive, so try to be as gentle as possible lest you instill marring that, say....M205 won't easily correct.
Otherwise, I find that PrepWash works better than IPA (for a lot of other jobs too
) and that sometimes a pretty potent wash is required if you want to get it off without risking reintroducing a lot of marring. No, plain water won't work well IME, and even steam can be iffy.Oh, and remember that the dried M105 residue is still very abrasive, so try to be as gentle as possible lest you instill marring that, say....M205 won't easily correct.
Anthony O.
New member
105 is like concrete if left to dry. So the remedy would be to never let the splatter remain on any areas. This is accomplished by removing it as soon as your panel is done and also making sure you have masked of any non-polish areas with tape, plastic and/or paper masking material.
When we used to use 105 we would mask the cars off to the point where people would ask if we are painting it! I learned my lesson the hard way on a black MB AMG wagon......it was horrible to remove.
Anthony
When we used to use 105 we would mask the cars off to the point where people would ask if we are painting it! I learned my lesson the hard way on a black MB AMG wagon......it was horrible to remove.
Anthony
wannafbody
wannafbody
Flash Gordon said:
This is horrible advice in it's own manner...water doesn't have much lubricity-use a car wash soap.
AeroCleanse
New member
This is one of the reasons I stopped using M105 (the original)
454Casull said:
:think: I have never heard of anyone using Ethanol
Are you trying to use this in direct sunlight?
Are you using the "old version"?
You should always wipe 105 off after working each panel. Why did you allow this to bake in?
I still see ppl in Memphis apply wax to there whip and roll around town. They claim it allows the product to bake in and protect longer :LOLOL
Flash Gordon said:
You haven't heard of people using ethanol because you haven't heard of people using ethanol, that's all.
No, wasn't done in direct sunlight, but the residue was exposed to sunlight.
I bought this bottle recently, so I doubt it.
Why did I allow it to bake in? Because it wasn't wiped off as well as I thought. Relax, I got it off without any cursing.