Question about using brakes

J

jjcrews01

New member
I have a new car, it's not my first new car or my last. (The point being, I almost certainly won't keep her forever. )

I drove a Suburban prior to this car. It was big and heavy and much harder to stop than this Toyota. So after I thought a little about braking I decided to use the transmission to help slow the car down - {only when the situation is conducive for it}, thinking that it would help preserve the life of the brakes. So here is my question... (s) :D



Is this good for the brakes but bad for my transmission (or engine) ? And then... How bad? (Since those parts are under a long warranty period.)



Also... when you are stopped , at a stop light for instance, is it better to use a lot of pressure on your brake pedal or just enough to keep it from moving forward?



Thanks for any thoughts, ideas or suggestions!
 
Brakes are cheaper then engines/transmissions. Use em!



Think of it this way, the brakes were designed to stop the car, the engine was designed to make it go. Brake pads are "cheap" in the big scheme of things.



:xyxthumbs
 
I noticed you drive a Highlander, with an automatic transmission, I would just leave it in drive and let it do its thing. The only time I would use engine braking on a vehicle like that is if I was descending a steep incline, or a steep wet/icy road.
 
boysmom said:




Also... when you are stopped , at a stop light for instance, is it better to use a lot of pressure on your brake pedal or just enough to keep it from moving forward?
Click to expand...



This is kind of irrelevant, if you think about it. When the pads are contacting the disks, there is no wear. The only wear is when you are slowing down, and the rotor is turning against the pads.



Whether you put pressure or not is your choice. I put pressure on the pedal at a stoplight. Why? So that if I should get rear-ended, I don't shoot out into the intersection, or into the car in front of me.
 
While coming to a stop light for a stop try to leave 50' or more of roll space to remove your foot from the brake to roll a few feet with no brake applied. Well that is a cumbersome explination. What you would like to do is not heat soak the rotors in one spot. A slow roll to a light with light brake pressure before stopping will allow the brakes to cool somewhat. Then only enough pressure to keep you from rolling forward will work fine. That will save the heat soak as well, marginally but it's better than nothing. With todays rotors being very warp prone due to lack of material, all reasonable measures to save them help.



An automatic transmission should not be used to slow your car, unless it is set up to do so; much larger cooler for the fluid, better frictions and bands, better valve body....





Michael Means
 
I agree with all the above. If you want to preserve the life of your brakes, begin stopping sooner so you don't have to apply a lot of pressure on the pads, and keep a safe following distance when driving behind other cars. If they slam on your brakes, you won't have to.
 
Definately use your brakes, brakes are much cheaper to replace than a transmission. They may be under warranty, but it's a major pain to have them replaced or fixed.



I also agree with what everybody has said above. If you stop properly, the only maintenance you'll have to do is replace the brake pads and maybe resurface the rotors.
 
Yeah I agree with pretty much what everyone said as well.



-brakes are cheaper and cheaper to replace/fix than transmissions

-some pressure when stopped incase you get rear-ended

-do more braking earlier and come to a final stop easily and gently



I'm not sure that even on steep descents if I'd use the transmission as a brake with an automatic. I can't help but wonder if the torque converter would be locked or not and if you'd be creating more heat in it if it wasn't. It might not quite be like doing the same thing with a stick. :nixweiss



Just don't ride the brakes all the way down the hill.
 
If the transmission is worth a crap and you're not making big jumps in rpm, you're not going to wear the engine or transmission any...



I've found most of the time people come up with transmission problems for it are cause by one of two things:



1) Big jumps in RPM (driver fault)

2) Clutch wears out. This is why we use Neutral at a light instead of pumping and riding your clutch all the time.



I've never understood 2, but I know more people that do this subconsciously and never realize it...



**********



Personal preferance really boils down to a combination of what habits you have, what myths you want to believe and a short lsit of other things I don't care to dream up and write.
 
JMiles said:


2) Clutch wears out. This is why we use Neutral at a light instead of pumping and riding your clutch all the time.



I've never understood 2, but I know more people that do this subconsciously and never realize it...
Click to expand...



If you sit at a stop light with clutch pedal pressed in, you end up wearing out your "throwout" bearing and not the actual clutch. The problem is that on some cars replacement of the throwout bearing can be just as costly as the clutch because of the labor involved. In general if you replace a clutch or a throwout bearing it is cost effective and good preventive maintenance to replace the other "while you are in there".



Of course if you have a performance car this just gets you a head start on the slippery slope of modifications :D...Because while you are in there you might want to get that light weight fly wheel or these great stainless steel syncros or better gearing.....the list may be endless.
 
bet993 said:
:D...Because while you are in there you might want to get that light weight fly wheel or these great stainless steel syncros or better gearing.....the list may be endless.
Click to expand...



Or my personal favorite...

Twin plate spring less, with dog-rings. :bow :xyxthumbs ;) :cool: :eek: :shocked
 
I was looking at my owners manual and it had intructions (?) on using the engine to help break. Depressing the overdrive button to shift into third, and what the RPMs should be for each gear, etc.



It doesn't give any warnings against it or to reccommend it. Does this suggest that this car might be "set up" to do this as Michael Means made a reference to?



I stoped this practice after reading the replies to my original post, BTW, but I have been curious since I saw this in the owner's manual.
 
Julie,



What context is the use of the engine for breaking being discussed? Was it in discussing towing, driving down steep inclines or other extreme driving and stopping scenarios? You can use the engine to brake in any car or truck, however, that does not mean you should do it on a daily basis. I truly doubt that Toyota is recommending that every time you slow down when your Highlander is in 4th gear to drop it out of over drive to help slow down before applying the breaks. As has been said before brakes, rotors and/or disc and the labor to replace and/or repair are very cheap compared to automatic transmission work and/or internal engine work.



Unless your Highlander has a transmission beyond the standard auto (i.e. paid extra for it beyond the normal charge for an automatic), then I bet it does not have the special features Michael was referring to when he made reference to being "set up for it". Now this doesn't mean it won't do what the manual says (see above - all cars will do this - its just not a good long term practice).
 
I would let the car coast as much as possible so then you can use the brakes less. I wouldn't just hold brakes slightly for long period of time because there is still alot of heat and friction. If you have a standard stransmission and lets say you are in 4th gear. Let off the accelerator and let car coast and if you want to go slower just hold down clutch and brake slightly and throw it in 3rd gear all at the same time. When I am at a light I just hold down my clutch pedal. Nothing wrong with that imo.
 
84GTV6 said:
Brakes are cheaper then engines/transmissions. Use em!



Think of it this way, the brakes were designed to stop the car, the engine was designed to make it go. Brake pads are "cheap" in the big scheme of things.



:xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



I agree...brakes are going to require regular maintenance anyway like changing the pads and possibly bleeding them. Replacing brakes is a lot less trouble than replacing a transmission :)
 
Infamous said:
I would let the car coast as much as possible so then you can use the brakes less. I wouldn't just hold brakes slightly for long period of time because there is still alot of heat and friction. If you have a standard stransmission and lets say you are in 4th gear. Let off the accelerator and let car coast and if you want to go slower just hold down clutch and brake slightly and throw it in 3rd gear all at the same time. When I am at a light I just hold down my clutch pedal. Nothing wrong with that imo.
Click to expand...



She has an automatic transmission.



On a generic note with a standard transmission, down shifting to 3rd to slow a car down can cause additional wear on your clutch plate, and will result in a less than smooth ride unless you "heel toe" the downshift. Also, down shifting is especially fun when going through a corner on a spirted drive as it will allow you to accelerate better out of the corner:D A word of caution to the inexperienced manual transmission drivers out there though...this can result in missed shifts (depending on your car's throw pattern i.e. getting 1st instead of 3rd, etc.) which can result in very, very, expensive engine damage from over revving (note: most, if not all, rev limiters will not work on a down shift).



There is nothing wrong with holding the clutch in at a stop light but it does wear out the thrown out bearing of the manual transmission. Depending on the car and transmission this could wear out faster than the clutch but it will be just as expensive as a clutch replacement in labor charges.
 
Well If I was traveling at around 4,000 rpm and wanted to slow down and I was in 4th gear and just threw it in 3rd then there would be problems. My motor is safe to rev up till 8,000 rpm and the rev limiter is 8100. I always match the engine rev with the speed I'm going. Lets say Im in 4th gear at 4,000rpm and I see a nice corner. I just rev it up fast until I get to about 6,000rpm and throw it in 3rd and dump clutch. If you dont match the engine rev's then there will be alot more pressure in the crankcase which is bad. But if your driving normally then downshifting is not a big deal. Just hit brakes and downshift at same time so there wont be built up pressure in the crankcase and it will be at a regular driving rpm range.
 
bet993 said:
Julie,



What context is the use of the engine for breaking being discussed?
Click to expand...



I presented this question in the context of normal everyday driving. And you are right, I don't believe this Highlander has any equipment other than what is standard on the Limited Automatic transmission.



You have all given me very good and sound reasoning for just using the brakes normally. Thanks for the discussion. :xyxthumbs



Julie
 
IM 100% with 84GTV6 Dont use your tranny to stop use your brakes dont try to save your brakes they will wear down and you will be replaceing them no matter what. Brake Pads are extremly cheap trannys and engines are not. The only time to use tranny to stop is on a steep hill or icy road. Im guessing your Highlander had 4WD so you probley wont need to do that anyway.





As for the question to apply brakes hard or soft on a stop light. Im with 2wheelsx2 I also apply them hard so I dont go flying into the intersection when rear ended.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top