PC, M105, speed 6. Problems

L

lancec2c30

New member
I am detailing a 2001 mustang. The swirls are horrible. I am using a lake country 4in orange pad, M105, and my porter cable on speed setting 6. Setting 5 was just not working for me



Now I can't even get a whole panel done without the pad completely gumming up. Is speed 6 too much for M105? It seems like the pad buildup is dried in too.





Another problem I am having is the edge of the backing plate is cutting deeply into the side of my orange pad. Is that a problem with the "low profile" pad.



Like this one (style I have)



Lake Country 4 Inch Foam Pads Low Profile- Made of high quality foam, these pads have hook & loop backing all the way to the edges. The benefit of



autogeek_2063_26790363
 
Sounds like what can be expected when using a 4" pad. You have a smaller pad, of course it going to get overloaded with product sooner.



I use speed 6 with 4" pads orange/M105 doing spot polishing all the time. I use 6.5" flat pads to polish panels with.



How many pads do you have? Even with 6.5" pads, I use at least 5-6 on a car. As soon as they loose their cut or become overloaded. I wash them, spin them out and place in front of a fan to dry. Once totally dry, I use them again.



You can also brush the pads off after each section and then blow compressed air across them. This should help to keep the pads from getting overload with product.
 
Thanks for the input, good to know it's just part of the process.



I have 4 of them right now. I guess I'll just hit up autogeek and order a few more.



Thanks again.
 
lancec2c30 said:
I am detailing a 2001 mustang. The swirls are horrible. I am using a lake country 4in orange pad, M105, and my porter cable on speed setting 6. Setting 5 was just not working for me



Now I can't even get a whole panel done without the pad completely gumming up. Is speed 6 too much for M105? It seems like the pad buildup is dried in too.
Click to expand...



That sounds a lot like how the original formula 105 acted. Does your bottle of 105 say that it's approved for DA use on the back?



The original formula was much more prone to gumming up pads, both on a rotary and DA.
 
It's the new compound, with the DA instruction on the back. I tried the newest pad I have, and it seems to be working better.



It looks like a couple of my pads are already shot, the foam is coming off the front and the surface seems to be breaking down.
 
Keep the surface moist with with a little QD spray. High heat and speed will dry out the compound that much faster.
 
apply more product and keep working!



grab more pads and change them out more often - I go through about 8 orange pads on a 3 series BMW sized car. I apply a circle of product, use speed 6 and make 4 passes.



NO on the QD!!! NO on the mixing of products. You will minimize the cut of the product because the abrasives will get suspended in the oils of the 2nd product. Just use more 105!



and the pads are shot because of the pressure you are applying, thats normal! make sure your backing plate fits on the velcro, not over it!
 
toyotaguy said:
NO on the QD!!! NO on the mixing of products. You will minimize the cut of the product because the abrasives will get suspended in the oils of the 2nd product. Just use more 105!
Click to expand...



As a 3M shareholder, I like your attitude. :ca
 
gmblack3a- You guys who get good results with the larger pads via PC just kill me...sure wish they worked for me :think: Via Flex, sure, but via PC I'm just wasting my time :nixweiss



lancec2c30-I prefer speed 5 for that PC/M105/LC 4" orange, but maybe that's just me. It does take longer but the time is just one of the variables I'm considering and it doesn't end up being the controlling one.



What struck me is that "I can't even get a whole panel done..". Doing an entire, really marred-up, panel with this combo would, *for me*, mean breaking that area up into four-eight sections. And each of those would take a fair bit of time.



I work small areas when using the little pads, and I clean them fairly often (using #34 then drying them with compressed air). It seems that as the oils/etc. flash off the pad can get too loaded with abrasive and cut-off paint and thus lose effectiveness.



When I prime my pads properly, they can't take much more M105 without clogging the pores up.



Reactivating M105, on an orange pad, when working via PC, can be tricky. Maybe it'll work great. But maybe you'll get really nasty marring from it. I've had it go both ways. I'm leaning more and more towards cleaning out the pads (or getting out a new one), and starting fresh.



Interesting that you're going through the pads so fast on Ford clear. Mine are wearing, but only after a fair bit of use on *very* hard clear.



Oh, and FWIW I prefer the thicker 4" orange pads from CycloToolmakers/Edge.
 
Accumulator said:
gmblack3a- You guys who get good results with the larger pads via PC just kill me...sure wish they worked for me :think: Via Flex, sure, but via PC I'm just wasting my time :nixweiss



lancec2c30-I prefer speed 5 for that PC/M105/LC 4" orange, but maybe that's just me. It does take longer but the time is just one of the variables I'm considering and it doesn't end up being the controlling one.



What struck me is that "I can't even get a whole panel done..". Doing an entire, really marred-up, panel with this combo would, *for me*, mean breaking that area up into four-eight sections. And each of those would take a fair bit of time.



I work small areas when using the little pads, and I clean them fairly often (using #34 then drying them with compressed air). It seems that as the oils/etc. flash off the pad can get too loaded with abrasive and cut-off paint and thus lose effectiveness.



When I prime my pads properly, they can't take much more M105 without clogging the pores up.



Reactivating M105, on an orange pad, when working via PC, can be tricky. Maybe it'll work great. But maybe you'll get really nasty marring from it. I've had it go both ways. I'm leaning more and more towards cleaning out the pads (or getting out a new one), and starting fresh.



Interesting that you're going through the pads so fast on Ford clear. Mine are wearing, but only after a fair bit of use on *very* hard clear.



Oh, and FWIW I prefer the thicker 4" orange pads from CycloToolmakers/Edge.
Click to expand...





I break panels into section too, a front fender usually involves 8 or maybe 9 different section.



I think the pads are getting torn up from polishing on setting 6. I got through a whole F-350 crew cab on setting 5 with one pad (had to wash the pad out many times), it was still good until I started on the mustang.



I could also be that I didn't clay bar this car before hand. :wall



Now I am starting to also think that the wear on the backing plate side of my pads is because the low-profile pads I bought don't fit the regular 4in backing plate.



Here is a picture of whats happening to them, I'm afraid it will break through the front side if I use them much longer.



dog-500-2-1.jpg




Thanks all. :2thumbs:
 
I just ran into this same problem when I was messing around because of this thread.



I think this is our problem:



These are the low profile pads and dont have velcro all the way across the pad. The BP that we use is larger than the velcro area and is driving into the foam.



Normal 4" LC pads arent like this however.
 
Huh, yeah, that does look like what's going on.



I sure like my thicker orange pads...hope I can figure out where I got them and buy some more.
 
that's why those pads have been on clearance for a while. It's a good price for what you get but like craig said, the velcro needs to go all the way to edge to protect them. I've been using mine just on windos, headlights etc lately because they get torn up pretty quick.
 
craigdt- Heh heh, my perhaps faulty memory thinks that my 4" orange pads are thicker than that LC pad shown in your link :think:



I bought mine years ago before 4" orange pads really caught on, so maybe such offerings are just different these days. I oughta check out CycloToolmakers, maybe they have 'em.
 
They're a bit too big for me, but Meg's new Soft Buff 2.0 pads really hold up well to some pretty hard polishing. I only have the black finishing pad. I've used it both on a rotary and a PC with equally good results. I worked it *really* hard on the DA. Working an LC pad the same amount as I did the Soft Buff 2.0 pad resulted in the destruction of the LC pad. The KBM does seem to be hard on pads, but the Soft Buff's seem to be up for it, if you don't mind how big the pads are. They're kind of an awkward size... just about right for a rotary, but too big for the PC (although they do work well on the PC with 205)
 
ctrent86 said:
Which color soft buff do you use with 205?
Click to expand...



I always use a zero bite foam pad when I'm using 205, and that's so the finish I get is how well the *polish* finishes down, and not the pad. It does make for slower correction, but if the paint is bad enough to need significant correction, I wouldn't be using 205 on it anyway. :)
 
SuperBee364 said:
I always use a zero bite foam pad when I'm using 205, and that's so the finish I get is how well the *polish* finishes down, and not the pad. It does make for slower correction, but if the paint is bad enough to need significant correction, I wouldn't be using 205 on it anyway. :)
Click to expand...



Whereas *I*, OTOH, often use M205 with pads that have some cut; orange for real correction and *Griot's* orange for milder correction. Yeah, I finish up with a no-cut pad, but I find I do better with the more aggressive pads, especially when the preceding M105 work has left significant hazing.



I'm kinda surprised how much I'm using orange pads now that I'm on my M205 kick :nixweiss Especially those from Griot's.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top