Patch and Re-spray Job Audi A4

G

GetAudiHere

New member
So a couple of years ago I ran into a road sign during a snow storm and it unfortunately left a gouge in my bumper. In november I got around to patching the gouge and I just now finished due to many, many mix ups/more like screw ups on Audi's end to get the right color paint. Thought I would post some pics of the process. I also have one question, the paint is a little textured and dull and I need to make it smooth to match the rest of the bumper. Now Im wondering what has to be done. I was thinking maybe like using a 3000 grit sand paper and then using some polish to shine it up. What do you guys recommend? I have a PC with some menzerna IP and some other things I ordered last summer.



Well here are the pics.



Before

DSCF1898.jpg


DSCF1897.jpg




Sanded

DSCF2967.jpg


Backing Mesh

DSCF2974.jpg


DSCF2975.jpg


Filler Flexible SEM-Weld

DSCF2978.jpg


DSCF2996.jpg


DSCF3003-1.jpg


Primer

DSCF3026.jpg


Paint Take 1

DSCF3043.jpg


Not even close...

DSCF3038.jpg


Take 2 (I didnt even want to paint the whole area because I knew it was going to be the wrong color again...)

DSCF3040.jpg


Keep in mind that this is special order paint and takes 2 weeks to get there. I had to do this THREE TIMES! :hairpullYes I was pissed to say the least. Carousel Audi :wall. So we raised hell and finally got it sorted out.

Paint Take 3

DSCF3053.jpg


Close as its going to get.

DSCF3057-1.jpg


DSCF3059-1.jpg




Well there it is. I was pretty proud of myself this being my first experience with any bodywork what-so-ever. Again if you guys have any questions, comments and advice on how to get it to match better with polishing and such please reply.



Thanks guys!!
 
Well I'll be dipped. I never knew Audi sold Touch-Up paint in rattle cans.

Very good work for the first time out. You seemed to have followed the required steps, including using a silicone/wax remover I hope for the prep.



As for the paint matching, wetsanding w/1500 grit or finer then polishing may help but basically whatever color you sprayed on is the color it's going to be.



I've done repair and re-paints on my A4 Ultrasport but using a professional equipment (minus a booth) but had my paint mixed up at a Autobody Paint Supplier. No color matching problems whatsoever but then again the car wasn't even 3 years old so there wasn't any fade in the paint on the panels.



Again, very good work.



moRbiD
 
Yeah i realize the color will be the same but I just want it to match the texture of the other paint being smooth not textured. The rattle cans are a pretty good deal, $25 for both color and clear.



Why wont it last? I used flexible filler because its a abs plastic bumper. How long do you guys think it will last?
 
wow all that money and time hmmmm i think i would of just had it repaired professionally thats a simple fix patch, putty, sand a little paint and some clear!
 
I was actually quoted a few times and they said they wouldnt be able to just patch it. They would have to replace the whole bumper, plus paint upwards of $1000. And even if they didnt have to replace the bumper it would have been at least $300 for paint and I didnt spend more that $100.
 
The reason they are saying it won't last is because cars today and for the last 2 or 3 decades are painted with a two part (2K) system called Base Coat/Clear Coat. It's much more durable.



Most paint that comes in a rattle can is either Lacquer or Enamel (the first one is what cars used to be painted with before the BC/CC system) and they aren't known for their durability on cars.



Another part is paint applied via aerosol isn't as durable as material applied with just compressed air. So Lacquer Paint applied professionally will out last Lacquer paint applied from a rattle can



You can go to a local autobody supply and have them match a color and put the paint into a rattle can (most of the time) but it won't have the different additives we mix in to the paint when shooting with a gun. Urethane Clear Coat has to be always mixed so is never put into a rattle can.



That's on the paint side. I've never been a fan of those patches as a backing cause if the adhesive fails or starts to give water gets in there and causes the repair to fail. That's on the Body Work Side



Anyway, I stand by my previous comment on how well you did the work. For the amount of money you spent and not having done anything like it before you did really well.



To do it yourself properly you would have to invest over $1,000 easily in tools and other equipment.



I had the Body Shop at the Audi Dealership re-finish my Front Bumper after driving the Car for one year so I could put a Clear Bra on. That cost me $300.00 + and there wasn't any damage. Just rock chips.



I'm guessing the "texture" your talking about is just Orange Peel in the Clear. Read up on the Wetsanding I talked about before and give that a go. It's called "Cut and Buff" and a standard procedure for any paint job since almost every paint job will have some OP.



moRbiD
 
Thanks guys. Alright so I went out and bought some 2000 grit sandpaper. Do you think the PC will be able to take care of the 2000 grit scratches? What do you think I will need? I have HiTemp Xtreme Cut, Menzerna IP, and Menzerna FPII. For pads I have 6.5" yellow, white, and black pads. As well as 4" green. But if I need 4" yellow or orange I can order that also. Thanks guys.
 
Was there any flex additive in the factory touch up spray cans? If there wasn't the repair most likely won't last long. first time someone bumps the car in the parking lot the paint will at a min. spider web or crack and flake off.
 
GetAudiHere said:
Thanks guys. Alright so I went out and bought some 2000 grit sandpaper. Do you think the PC will be able to take care of the 2000 grit scratches? What do you think I will need? I have HiTemp Xtreme Cut, Menzerna IP, and Menzerna FPII. For pads I have 6.5" yellow, white, and black pads. As well as 4" green. But if I need 4" yellow or orange I can order that also. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...



Read through this to get an idea of where your going. Not saying you need to do it this way but the principle is the same.



You'll need something to make a sanding block out of, you can find rubber squeegee's at any autobody supply shop (maybe even where you got the sandpaper from). They only cost a dollar or so and we usually use them to "squeegee" off the water and sludge when wet sanding.



Let the paper soak overnight or at least a few hours before using it. Add one of two drops of dish washing soap to a gallon of water. The soap will give you some lubricant when wetsanding.



Pretty much any polish (light cut) will remove 1500 grit or finer sand scratches so you don't need anything special like a medium or heavy cut polish. I'm sure a PC will do fine.



There are a couple of important things you want to keep in mind when wetsanding. The first is to keep the surface and paper wet at all times. You want it flooded.



Another is to keep the paper and surface free from the build-up of sludge. If you feel the paper grabbing while your working you know it's cause of one of those two things. So keep dipping the paper into the bucket of water.



Lastly you need to know when to stop. Check your work often by squeegeeing the material off the area of the panel your working on.



We call it "Orange Peel" cause the texture of the surface looks just like the skin of an orange.



So when your sanding you want to achieve a uniform dull color. We sometimes refer to this as "flat"



Note: it's entirely possible and many people have done it, that one can sand right through the clear down to the paint. So be careful.
 
GetAudiHere- Take MorBid seriously when he says "know when to stop". I'd spray/squeegee/inspect after every few strokes, better to err on the side of caution.



The HT EC *might* work OK on the 2K scratches if you use a 4" orange/yellow pad, but M105 would probably work a lot better.



I'd absolutely use Megiuar's/Nikken or Mirka 2K paper as other brands sometimes leave random deep "tracer" scratches that you *won't* get out with a PC.



Scratches in the surroundling factory paint will be a *LOT* harder to get out than scratches in your touchup paint.





The repair might hold up quite well as long as it's not subjected to any impacts. I had the license plate mounting holes on my WRX filled and they stayed OK for as long as I had the car.
 
GetAudiHere said:
I was actually quoted a few times and they said they wouldnt be able to just patch it. They would have to replace the whole bumper, plus paint upwards of $1000. And even if they didnt have to replace the bumper it would have been at least $300 for paint and I didnt spend more that $100.
Click to expand...



They're full of it. Lord Fusor among others make materials just for effecting those types of repairs. I'll let you in on a little secret. Most Bodyshops are what we call Production Shops. Most of their work is Insurance Jobs but most importantly it's quick in and quick out. They don't make their money per car but on how many car's they do.



It's far easier/quicker to replace a panel than it is to repair it and that's what they will do. Not all the time and materials that go into most panel repairs is billable and your tying up the shop or a person who could be doing several jobs per day instead of that one.



Custom Paint Shops will do better work but they charge accordingly.
 
Well Im done and completely satisfied! :waxing:



I used 3M 2000 grit sandpaper.

DSCF3128.jpg




And some Menzerna IP with a 4" green pad with the PC.

DSCF3129.jpg


DSCF3130.jpg


DSCF3132-2.jpg




Now it looks better than the otherside! haha



Thanks for all your help MorBid!
 
Looks much better. It might be a good idea if you removed the plate frame so that you can remove the sanding marks near it. It looks a little flat in that area.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top