New guy with a minivan

S

StoneMan

New member
I've been reading about this forum, and now I see why it gets rave reviews. You guys definitely know your stuff. So now I'm hoping you can tolerate a few stupid questions from a newb who just got ... yikes ... a minivan.



As you can guess, I've got young kids (thus the minivan) so we're on the go a lot. That means I don't have a ton of time to devote to making the car look like it just came off the showroom floor. At the same time, though, I do want to protect the paint and keep it looking nice.



To this end, I've ordered a 3M paint protection film for the hood. The dealership just repainted the hood because there were some nicks in it. The local 3M installer says it's safe to put the film on just 48 to 72 hours after the paint. Does this sound right to you?



Complicating matters is the fact that the body shop that did the work needs to buff it and apply more clear coat because there are a few places where the paint is kind of bumping up a bit (each feels about the size of a grain of sand). They assure me that they'll just need to buff and reapply clearcoat. Does this also sound right?



The buffing is supposed to take place Monday, and I've scheduled installation of the 3M film for Wednesday. I'd like your feedback on whether I'm okay doing this.



Also, while I'm asking questions... What is my best bet for maintaining the car's appearance? From reading around here, it sounds like the best combination of quality appearance and quick, easy application would come from using Klasse AIO, followed by Menzerna FMJ. Does this sound like a good combo? The FMJ intro package comes with applicator and buffing cloth. What else would I need to buy? I need pretty much everything: shampoo, washing cloth or mitt, applicators and buffers for the Klasse, etc. Currently I have an Absorber, but if that's not good to use, just let me know. My minivan is a Toyota Sienna in the Salsa Red, so it's a pretty dark color.



Sorry for all the questions, but I figured I should lay them all out here at once. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
 
cj99si said:
Holy cow is this car actually yours now? what color? What year? scotch gaurd the interior and your on the right track with FMJ.
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Right before you replied, I realized I needed to add the color, so that's now in the original post. The car is a 2006, but I figured out the original build date was in October.



I decided not to Scotch guard the interior. Instead I got velour seat covers from seatcoverfactory.com. These I can remove and clean inside the house if they ever get messy. I also ordered all weather floor mats to use when I'm worried about what we'll drag in the car.



Thanks for the quick feedback!
 
If its brand new I would say get another one. If your stuck with it make sure its perfect. Look at the color match in the sun and under flouresent light. Make theres no buffer marks when you look at every angle in the sun. The finish should match the rest of the car (no orange peel). The hood is one of the worst things to have painted on a car. What kind of deal are they giving you?
 
cj99si said:
If its brand new I would say get another one. If your stuck with it make sure its perfect. Look at the color match in the sun and under flouresent light. Make theres no buffer marks when you look at every angle in the sun. The finish should match the rest of the car (no orange peel). The hood is one of the worst things to have painted on a car. What kind of deal are they giving you?
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I'm getting almost $3000 off MSRP, so I feel that I got a good deal (although I know others have done better.) I'm stuck with this car now, because I took delivery. I was smart enough to make them include this in the Due Bill, or else they probably would have tried to get away with just a touch-up.



I already looked for buffer marks and color match. Both were excellent. These raised spots are bugging me, though. Is this a common, easily remedied problem?
 
StoneMan- Welcome to Autopia! We too have a minivan (Mazda MPV) and IMO minivans deserve a good detail just as much as anything else :D



The raised bumps are usually some contamination that got into the clear. They'll abrade the bumps down and reclear, oughta turn out fine.



I dunno about doing the protection film right away. The problem with sealing fresh paint (and IMO putting plastic on it will seal it air tight for sure) is that the fresh paint can't "outgas", i.e., release solvents through evaporation to effect proper curing. Interfering with the outgassing can make the paint end up softer than it would be otherwise. Does this matter under the protection :nixweiss Is it better than driving for the ~2 moths it takes to cure (and risk getting stone chips) :nixweiss.



If it were mine (and I've gone through this countless times) I'd just get it painted, not put the film on, and live with chips/etc. But that's just me and chips don't bother me the way they do some people.



If you decide to put the film on, just treat the whole thing like any new car and wax it up. If you decide to let the fresh paint outgas, get some Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish to use on the fresh paint for the first ~2 months and wax the rest of it (the factory paint).



I use a pair of THESE to work on the roof of our minivan.
 
Like he said a re clear should fix the problem. Id wait a couple of weeks before you put on the stone gaurd. Im not sure where you live but at least the brunt of winter is over. Stick with you plan on menzerna FMJ and you will be all set (two layers).
 
cj99si said:
Like he said a re clear should fix the problem. Id wait a couple of weeks before you put on the stone gaurd. Im not sure where you live but at least the brunt of winter is over. Stick with you plan on menzerna FMJ and you will be all set (two layers).
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So do I need anything else (like the Klasse AIO)? Or will the Menzerna FMJ give me all the protection (and applicators, buffing towels) I need? What should I use for washing the car?



Thanks again for all the help!
 
Hi StoneMan, :welcome to Autopia.



StoneMan said:
... The local 3M installer says it's safe to put the film on just 48 to 72 hours after the paint. Does this sound right to you?...
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No!



from 3M's FAQ:



Q. Will the paint smear if Scotchgardâ„¢ Paint Protection Film is applied over a newly painted vehicle?

A. The paint on a newly painted vehicle must be cured according to manufacturer's recommendations. Your body shop should be able to provide you with this information.





StoneMan said:
... there are a few places where the paint is kind of bumping up a bit (each feels about the size of a grain of sand). They assure me that they'll just need to buff and reapply clearcoat. Does this also sound right?...
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Depends. If it's just dust that settled on the paint film after it flashed but before it was dry they can sand off the defect and clear over it or possibly just buff it. If it's under the clear they'll have to sand it off and re-spray.





PC.
 
PC- :xyxthumbs for posting the official word from 3M- better than my educated guess ;)



StoneMan- The "how to wash" Q is a lot more involved than you'd ever guess :o Short answer (and thinking minvan-centric): get a foamgun (see numerous threads about it; I have no idea which one to recommend anymore as we've discussed it a lot) and a good Boar's Hair Brush (BHB). I'm currently using (and satisfied with) the BHB from AutoGeek. They also sell the foamgun but I'd rather direct business towards Danase (a fellow Autopian and all-around good guy).



Buffing towels- get some high-quality MicroFibers (MFs) and also get some Waffle-weave (WW) MFs to dry with. Numerous sources for these, I'd try to give the business to somebody here.



I'm betting that somebody who keeps track of who-sells-what will chime in with specific recommendations.



I like AIO for a lot of things and AFAIK it works fine under FMJ. I wouldn't put it on the fresh paint though.
 
Dont over think the wash. Its important yes but its common sense not expensive products that will keep you swirl free.



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Maybe two



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use something mild that wont strip the wax



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You have a big minivan with a tall roof, dont kill your self get one of these.

Just make sure its always clean. Start top down.



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Use this first to get the big stuff off



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Then this



You can get almost all of this right at walmart.
 
I too own a van. I really don't like the water blade for drying although others seem to love theirs. I think it is only a matter of time before you'll get a tiny grain of something caught and create a fine (or not so fine) scratch. Today there are waffle weaves and large microfiber towels that will dry a mini van quickly. I washed my Silouette today and it probably only took 10 minutes to dry it with two waffle weaves.
 
Blake said:
I too own a van. I really don't like the water blade for drying although others seem to love theirs. I think it is only a matter of time before you'll get a tiny grain of something caught and create a fine (or not so fine) scratch. Today there are waffle weaves and large microfiber towels that will dry a mini van quickly. I washed my Silouette today and it probably only took 10 minutes to dry it with two waffle weaves.
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If your worried use it on just the windows, that should save a bunch of time. a mini van is 1/2 window. I have a volcano black A4 that ive been using it on for two years and I havent scratched it yet. As well as hundreds of custumer cars.
 
I'm on the other side of this fence- IMO most people *can't* overthink the wash process; just look at all the "swirl removal" threads on this site. If you have to polish out marring (or if you -shudder- live with it), blame the wash.



I'm as careful when washing/drying as I can imagine a person being (and I'm fairly imaginative ;) ) and I finally did mar some paint while using the CWB, so I retired it.



No way I'd use ZipWax wash (lousy lubricity, I've used it), or a synthetic-brisle brush on my minivan's roof any more than I'd use such stuff on a classic showcar. Test that brush out on a CD and it'd be a horror show. It's hard enough to find good brushes with boar's hair bristles.
 
Well, I got my minivan back today. Sure enough, they buffed out the rough spots in the clearcoat. But I seriously doubt they reapplied any clearcoat. There are swirl marks galore all over the hood. Two areas look hazy. The guy who dropped it off told me the imperfections should fade over the next 2 days, and if it doesn't they'll take it back and try again.



This is getting maddening! :grrr For one, I've never heard of swirl marks and haze just resolving on their own. But now I'm almost wishing that I had left the bumps in the clearcoat. The paint looked fantastic before, with no swirls whatsoever. Now I've got them everywhere.



Am I right? Is the vehicle going to look exactly the same 2 days from now? If so, should I just keep sending it back until they get it right? Or should I just assume that their boneheads will never do better than they have so far, and just try to polish it myself?



Thanks again for all the help!
 
Take it back, your wasting your time keeping it two days. Tell them you want to take it somewhere else. Thats silly dude, their killing you! Ive painted many cars, nothing is going to change. Sorry......
 
cj99si said:
Take it back, your wasting your time keeping it two days. Tell them you want to take it somewhere else. Thats silly dude, their killing you! Ive painted many cars, nothing is going to change. Sorry......
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So what do I need done at this point? Should I require another application of clearcoat? Or do I just need somebody who knows how to buff correctly?



Thanks again!
 
StoneMan- I think it's time to have a talk with the bodyshop manager and the owner/general manager of the dealership. At this point they're out and out lying to you..."fade over a few days" :rolleyes: Trying to deceive customers like that (they must hope you'll go away and get preoccupied with something else and let them off the hook) is a real :nono and I'd be utterly adamant on this. You paid for a new vehicle, not something that's been hacked up by some talentless idiots and looks like it.



Yeah, they probably took off too much clear and they oughta do it again. This shouldn't be beyond their capabilities; it was OK before except for the dust under the clear.



FWIW, I've had numerous jobs redone over the years. After the "deer incident" they redid spots on my S8 four times after the initial job. They simply had to do it over until it got as good as it was gonna get. Yours isn't as good as they can get it yet.
 
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