New guy - introduction and some questions!

T

TBomb06

New member
Hey all! First, I want to say thanks for all the helpful information you have provided here - just by perusing through some of the threads and searching I have already learned a ton! I frequent the Fourtitude/VWVortex (Audi/VW) forums and I know some of the guys in the detailing forums there also post a lot here, so I figured this would be a good place to go in search of information.



I've always been big into taking care of my vehicles, inside and out. Now that I'm married, I have 3 vehicles to take care of, and while I do enjoy detailing, I don't have the time or resources to try out every product out there to find the perfect combination for my different vehicles, so "close enough" will have to work for now :)



The 3 vehicles we have are: 2007 Audi A3 in Ocean Blue Pearl (mine), 2004 VW Jetta in Spice Red Metallic (hers), and 1996 Chevrolet Silverado in Light Stellar Blue Metallic (my first vehicle, still in good shape, I drive it to work a lot).



Anyway, on to some product discussion! Until now, I've always worked by hand, building my deltoids and forearms and polishing away and getting ok results, but I've learned enough lately to know that I need to be actually correcting the flaws rather than covering them up.



My previous process:



Wash/Dry (2 bucket, grit guard, ONR, Griot's microfiber wash mitts and drying towels)

Clay (Sonus Green, ONR for lube)

Meguiars Scratch-X on any visible scratches (spot treatment)

P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser

3M IHG

Meguiars Gold Class Wax



So, like I said, this works alright, but it's a lot of work, and it just covers up the swirls and doesn't fix them. So, enough is enough, I gave in and got a DA. I picked up a Griot's 6" DA and some LC 6.5" orange and white pads, along with some Meguiar's 105 and 205, Duragloss 105, and P21S Concours Carnauba Wax.



New process theory:



Wash/dry/clay

Wipe with 50/50 A/W

Start with 205 on white pad, work up as needed

After correction is done, wipe with 50/50 A/W

Duragloss 105 (possibly multiple layers after curing)

P21S on top of Duragloss after cured



So, my questions are basically...is this a good process?



Is there any place for the P21S GEPC or the 3M IHG in my new process, or is pretty much relegated to the back of the shelf? I have a feeling they will be too oily to apply before the Duragloss, right?



I've read that the Audi and VW paint is notoriously hard, so will I be ok with 105 and an orange pad if needed? The wife's car has some water spots and scratches on it, but mine is in pretty good shape.



Anything I should look out for?



Anyway, I would really appreciate any and all feedback, and my apologies if this is posted in the wrong forum! Thanks!
 
There's another thread going on about machine polishing Audi paint. I can't vouch for his accuracy because I'm a newbie too, but the_invisible made a post in there that seems knowledgable. The thread is here: http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/128685-public-service-announcement.html



Also, from reading this forum, most people follow the 205 with 105. The 205 is so abrasive, you have to follow it with something that will clean up how the 205 throws things around. Or, something like that.



I've also seen where people go so far as to follow the 105 up with 3M's Ultrafina. But, I haven't read much about that.



The Duragloss 105 step seems like overkill. Maybe you meant it as a replacement for the 105 step? I doubt it'd be enough to clean up after the 205.



But, as I said, I'm a newbie, wait for the other more knowledgable people to post.
 
Well, from what I have read, the M105 is more abrasive, so if the 205 doesn't get the job done, I would step up to the 105. I've also read that it has the ability to finish down pretty nicely, even as abrasive as it is, but yes, I would probably follow the 105 with 205 (if I needed to use the more abrasive 105).



The Duragloss 105 is a paint sealant, at least as far as I'm aware, so it would go on last after the paint has been corrected. The P21S would just go on top for a little added protection and shine.



Those are my thoughts, anyway :)
 
TBomb06 said:
..The 3 vehicles we have are: 2007 Audi A3 in Ocean Blue Pearl (mine), 2004 VW Jetta in Spice Red Metallic (hers), and 1996 Chevrolet Silverado in Light Stellar Blue Metallic (my first vehicle, still in good shape, I drive it to work a lot)...
Click to expand...



All can be expected to have hard clear.



I gave in and got a DA. I picked up a Griot's 6" DA and some LC 6.5" orange and white pads, along with some Meguiar's 105 and 205, Duragloss 105, and P21S Concours Carnauba Wax.



New process theory:



Wash/dry/clay

Wipe with 50/50 A/W

Start with 205 on white pad, work up as needed

After correction is done, wipe with 50/50 A/W

Duragloss 105 (possibly multiple layers after curing)

P21S on top of Duragloss after cured



So, my questions are basically...is this a good process?
Click to expand...



Looks good, but here are a few things *I* might reconsider:



I wouldn't use the 50/50 after the claying, I'd just rewash the panels as I wipe off the clay lube.



I wouldn't expect to get by with just the M205. While (yeah, yeah..) you're supposed to start mild, I bet a quick test spot will show that you need the M105 (yeah, that's the aggressive one) for any significant correction. I know that I sure do on my Audis and my GMC. M105/4" LC orange can still take *MANY* goes to affect correction on hard clear.



Keep at it with the M105 (maybe consider a white/polishing pad, or the Griot's orange, for the final M105 passes). Don't switch to the M205 until you think thing's are already as nice as you want them.

I'm not familiar with the DuraGloss, but I don't top my sealants with waxes.



Is there any place for the P21S GEPC or the 3M IHG in my new process, or is pretty much relegated to the back of the shelf? I have a feeling they will be too oily to apply before the Duragloss, right?
Click to expand...



Right. Some people do like the P21s GEPC (but not me) for use when using waxes instead of sealants. The IHG will be handy if you ever have any paintwork done (use it while the paint is curing).



I've read that the Audi and VW paint is notoriously hard, so will I be ok with 105 and an orange pad if needed? The wife's car has some water spots and scratches on it, but mine is in pretty good shape.
Click to expand...



It'll just take many tries, but it will probably work. You might need to switch to a 4" pad (with the suitable backing plate) to speed things up, dunno for sure as I've never done correction with my Griot's 6" RO.



I don't mean to sound pessimistic, but correcting those types of clear with a 6.5" pad might be more than the Griot's machine can handle.



Anything I should look out for?
Click to expand...



Don't give up when (OK.. make that "if") things take a long long time; "this isn't working!" might come to mind after the fifth try with M105/orange still hasn't cleared up the marring much ;)



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
 
Thanks for the great information and confirmation of my theories! I know the Griots DA is more powerful than a PC, and I've read that it will turn a 6.5" pad ok with significant pressure, but we shall see. I might need the 4" pads for more cut, and I'll probably want them for the tighter areas anyway, or at least something smaller than the 6.5" pads. At any rate, I'll start on an inconspicuous 1' square area until I find a method that works before I tackle the whole thing. Oh, and I'll start on the Chevy first :)
 
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