Need Some Advice on What products to use, and how to use them!

[08Sunburst]

Hello everyone :heelclick



Im a newbie to the forum, long time lurker...



I have been browsing around the forum looking for some answers, but am having trouble finding the info that im looking for.



A small intro of myself and my car..



I am currently driving a 2008 dodge caliber, sunburst orange. I have had the car for about two years now, and have been VERY VERY meticulous about keeping it clean.



I clay it every spring and fall, as well as wax every three months. I try to keep on top of keeping it clean in every way possible, as it is my first car that i have bought that is brand new.



Anyway.. After two years, the elements and rock chips, environment, etc etc has left my paint looking, well.. two years old.



What i am looking for, is some advice and guidance on how to get it back to looking great.



As of right now, the paint is VERY glossy, and looks like brand new, from about 5 feet away, but get any closer, or feel the paint, and it just feels rough.



Recently(the past month or two) i have been noticing that there is a substance that covers my ENTIRE car, roof, hood, doors, trunk, etc etc. It looks almost like someone toko hair spray and coated the entire car with it.



Once i noticed this, i washed the car, clayed, and waxed, and to my surprise, the paint still felt VERY rough. If you run your hand over it, it sounds like sandpaper.



Now, its not just happening on my car, but everyone around where i live has it stuck to their cars as well, and i cant figure out what it is, or where its coming from. My only reasonable answer is that it is environmental fallout, or something, but its tough stuff.. Washing doesnt remove it, and claying didnt help it either..





Also, i have noticed that some of the surfaces have begun to show some scratches, swirls, etc etc. Nothing that is deep, and is mostly surface level.



My question to whoever can help me, is what do i use to get the paint showroom fresh again?



I have done a bit of research, and so far, i plan to:



Wash, clay, buff, polish, and wax.



I dont currently own a buffer(i have an orbital, but that wont help me out..) but i do plan to buy one very soon. I have read a bit on here, and while i know its not the best choice to go with, im planning on stopping by harbor freight and picking up a buffer from them. If i was doing detailing for a living, i would buy something thats nicer, but i wont be using it that much, and i cant justify paying that much money for something i will hardly use..



So with that being said, what products and pads should i be using? Im curious as to know which compound and polish to use, as well as which pads i should use to apply each of them with.



As far as claybar kits go, i typically use meguiars, and i normally use the NXT wax as well.



I have heard about zanio also, but have never used them.



I will also try to get a few pictures of the paint of my car up close, but here are a few shots of the car as of right now:

Thank you in advance for helping me out, and for taking the time to read though that LONG post.

 

[08Sunburst]

ok, these are the best shots of the hood that i can get at the moment, but it does show the light surface blemishes that im talking about:

Once again, thanks for any input!

 

[imported_BobbyG]

Welcome!



That's a great color and with some work it'll explode and sparkle.



While you can do paint correction manually most use a rotary or DA polisher. This is a list of products I use but there are many others as well and depending on the car and it's finish some work better than others.



1. Clay

2. Swirl Remover – Meguiar’s M105 and orange foam pad

3. Finishing Polish – Meguiar’s M205 with white or gray foam pad

4. Finishing Polish – Menzerna Polish PO85RD with gray foam pad

5. Isopropyl Alcohol Clean

6. Sealant - Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or Menzerna Power Lock

7. Wax - Collinite 845, Pinnacle Liquid Souverän Wax



I'd start off with Meguiar's M205 as it's less aggressive and you always want to look at the least aggressive and determine the results before going more aggressive. Do a small test spot and judge from here.

 

[08Sunburst]

Welcome!



That's a great color and with some work it'll explode and sparkle.



While you can do paint correction manually most use a rotary or DA polisher. This is a list of products I use but there are many others as well and depending on the car and it's finish some work better than others.



1. Clay

2. Swirl Remover – Meguiar’s M105 and orange foam pad

3. Finishing Polish – Meguiar’s M205 with white or gray foam pad

4. Finishing Polish – Menzerna Polish PO85RD with gray foam pad

5. Isopropyl Alcohol Clean

6. Sealant - Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or Menzerna Power Lock

7. Wax - Collinite 845, Pinnacle Liquid Souverän Wax



I'd start off with Meguiar's M205 as it's less aggressive and you always want to look at the least aggressive and determine the results before going more aggressive. Do a small test spot and judge from here.

Thanks for the quick response!!



Can most of the products you mentioned be found at an auto parts store, or are they something i will have to order online?





Also, this is the rotary polisher i am planning on getting, does it seem like it would do the job? 7" Variable Speed Polisher/Sander





I will do some searching around on here so that im not wasting your time, but i have never heard of an isopropyl alcohol clean before lol.



Thank you again! I am hoping to take a weekend to fully detail the exterior once the temperatures come down a little bit. Its in the 90's here in the chicago suburbs, and after working all day in a non-air conditioned shop, i dont want to spend a full weekend out in the heat.



Also, the sealant and wax should just be hand applied, correct?

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

IPA wipedowns are quite common (BTW WELCOME TO AUTOPIA) as far as they go--it helps clean out the oils and all that so you have a clean base



Sealants and waxes i apply by hand

 

[Dan]

If you are claying and it still feels rough, then something is very wrong. Polishing is not the step that should make paint smooth, it's claying. You clay UNTIL the paint is smooth THEN polish. Tape off a 1x1 square somewhere and clay it until smooth, this could take a while. If you can't get it smooth, I'm gonna stay stop and find and autopian in your area and have them look at it.



On to the subject of buffers. The cost of the buffer is only part of the equation. To do the job right, you need a good selection of pads, which will end up being just as expensive as the buffer itself. If you are shopping at HF, they only have total trash buffers or rotaries. The trash buffers don't work with the foam pads you need and the rotary is a dangerous tool in the hands of a newbie.

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

The cost of the buffer is only part of the equation. To do the job right, you need a good selection of pads, which will end up being just as expensive as the buffer itself. If you are shopping at HF, they only have total trash buffers or rotaries. The trash buffers don't work with the foam pads you need and the rotary is a dangerous tool in the hands of a newbie.

he speaks the truth

 

[Accumulator]

Can most of the products you mentioned be found at an auto parts store, or are they something i will have to order online?

You could check the yellow pages for an autobody/paint supply store, which will have (or can get) many/most of the products you need. Just be wary of attempts to get you to buy something different.

Also, this is the rotary polisher i am planning on getting, does it seem like it would do the job? 7" Variable Speed Polisher/Sander

Rotary polishers have a lamentably shallow learning curve and I'd *EMPHATICALLY* recommend that you buy a Random Orbital or Dual Action polisher instead. The Griot's 6" is a very nice unit and, if fitted for use with slightly smaller 5.5" pads, should do anything you need done. And most importantly you'll be able to get great results right off the bat, not after spending forever "mastering" it like with a rotary. I have a scad of polishers, including rotaries, and there's no way for me to overstate my opinion on this matter

I am hoping to take a weekend to fully detail the exterior once the temperatures come down a little bit. Its in the 90's here in the chicago suburbs, and after working all day in a non-air conditioned shop, i dont want to spend a full weekend out in the heat.

This sort of thing ususally takes a *LOT* longer than people expect. I'd recommend that you distill the process down to the bare minimum, at least for the first time you try this. I.e., I would try to get by with one, maybe two, polishing steps and I'd just use one Last Step Product ("LSP", that is, wax or sealant).



Keeping in mind the paint's apparently significant contamination, I would probably:



Wash with FinishKare 1119

Clay

Polish with M105 or Optimum Spray Compound

Polish with some finer polish

Wax with 845



I could even see replacing those polishing steps with just one, something like 1Z Paint Polish. That product leaves some wax behind, which is handy if you're too pooped/out of time by the time you finish polishing and have to put off the waxing until after the next wash.



Yeah, that's is. I probably wouldn't even recommend that you do much, if any IPA wiping/etc. Just doing the above, and I don't mean doing it to some "Autopian Standard either (but rather to a "hey, good enough for real life" standard instead), will take up at least most of a full weekend.

Also, the sealant and wax should just be hand applied, correct?

You can do it either way. With the Collinite 845 (which would probably be my recommended LSP in this case), I like using a polisher, but there's no real *advantage* over doing it by hand except that I like the motions better.



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!

 

[08Sunburst]

Hey there guys! I havent been on here in a while, and i figured id give an update on whats going on.



I havent had the time until recently to collect and order everything i need, but i am planning on doing the full detail either this, or next weekend.



Here is what ive got as of right now:

Meguiars Clay bar kit, meguiars scratch-x 2.0, meguiars #7 polish, meguiars #20 sealer, and meguiars gold class wax.



It is supposed to rain this weekend, and i have to work a bit on saturday, so im not sure if i will be able to get it done this weekend or next, but i will be working on it soon!



Also, i wound up not buying the rotary, just because of doing research and finding that its pretty expensive for a good one, and my paint isnt in THAT bad of condition that it needs to be buffed out. Just some light scratches here and there, which i think the scratch-x should take care of nicely.



I did have to order the paint sealant, because no one stocks it in the store, and only ONE place was even able to order it for me. Had i not have had to order that, it would have gotten detailed this past weekend.



Any comments or suggestions before i do the detail?



I think i got some good over the counter products though, so hopefully it will all work out!





Oh, and part of the reason why i haent posted in a while ie because for some reason, my computer blocked the site because it said it was harmful or something along those lines.. I was finally able to get back on this past week

 

[08Sunburst]

Also, for the IPA wash, how do i go about doing that? Just pour some alcohol on a clean microfiber and wipe lightly?

 

[Accumulator]

08Sunburst- What are you planning to do with the M07? Note that it's not a "polish" in the normal sense, but rather a nonabrasive glaze. Kinda incompatible with doing any kind of IPAing :think:



Be sure to do a test-spot and inspect it in all kinds of lighting; make sure you have your process dialed-in before you do the whole car.



FWIW, I wouldn't have much use for M07 on that car, and I wouldn't top the M21 with the Gold Class. I'd want to have some Ultimate Compound on hand in case the Scratch-X v2.0 isn't potent enough.



I agree that you don't need a *rotary* polisher, but I'd still be thinking about getting a random-orbital one.

 

[Dan]

I agree with Accum. Ditch the #7 and Gold class wax. Return the ScratchX for some UC and SwirlX and do two coats of #20. You are doing this by hand, you really want to get it right the frist time!

 

[08Sunburst]

08Sunburst- What are you planning to do with the M07? Note that it's not a "polish" in the normal sense, but rather a nonabrasive glaze. Kinda incompatible with doing any kind of IPAing :think:



Be sure to do a test-spot and inspect it in all kinds of lighting; make sure you have your process dialed-in before you do the whole car.



FWIW, I wouldn't have much use for M07 on that car, and I wouldn't top the M21 with the Gold Class. I'd want to have some Ultimate Compound on hand in case the Scratch-X v2.0 isn't potent enough.



I agree that you don't need a *rotary* polisher, but I'd still be thinking about getting a random-orbital one.

I agree with Accum. Ditch the #7 and Gold class wax. Return the ScratchX for some UC and SwirlX and do two coats of #20. You are doing this by hand, you really want to get it right the frist time!

Ah.. so the #7 isnt considered a polish then... Ive had it for a few months, and was planning to use it after the scratch-x.





So, no wax on top of the sealant then? Just do two coats of the sealant and thats that?



I do have two orbital polishers, a 6 inch and a 10 inch, so im set there if i really wanted to use those, but i dont mind applying product by hand.





I did a test spot today, here are the results.





This panel is right next to the spot that i tested. It is also one spot on the car where i have the most amount of scratches, because i was swiped by someone when i was parked by their mirror getting too close.

This is the "after" panel, using the scratch x.

 

[08Sunburst]

So i got impatient and worked on my hood tonight.



Took me 1 1/2 hours to clay, buff(by hand) and seal it, but the results speak for themselves. Granted, there are some scratches on there that i cant get out by hand, and i may buff the car with a rotary next year, but GOD DAMN is it a LOT better



Before:

After:

 

[gigondaz]

The most serious problem you face is the roughness.

I suspect it could even be paint mist that could've come from your neighbours. Lots of my customers also hv these problems.



If it's indeed paint-mist,

1. Try using your claybar again, and clay repeatedly on a 1 square foot patch. Spend 5mins on this. Your previous claying could hv been insufficient or even wrongly done. If it doesn't work....

2. Dry the area. Lightly rub old MF cloth (moistened with acetone -nail polish remover) on the rough area. Acetone will damage your MF cloth. If you hv paint over-spray, the over-spray shd come off now. Absolutely safe on clearcoats. Don't worry.

3. If it doesn't help, get the stronger clay bars.



To get rid of this roughness (on your entire car) would take substantial time.

I'd suggest you remove the roughness first, before delving into buying machines and other products.

 

[08Sunburst]

The most serious problem you face is the roughness.

I suspect it could even be paint mist that could've come from your neighbours. Lots of my customers also hv these problems.



If it's indeed paint-mist,

1. Try using your claybar again, and clay repeatedly on a 1 square foot patch. Spend 5mins on this. Your previous claying could hv been insufficient or even wrongly done. If it doesn't work....

2. Dry the area. Lightly rub old MF cloth (moistened with acetone -nail polish remover) on the rough area. Acetone will damage your MF cloth. If you hv paint over-spray, the over-spray shd come off now. Absolutely safe on clearcoats. Don't worry.

3. If it doesn't help, get the stronger clay bars.



To get rid of this roughness (on your entire car) would take substantial time.

I'd suggest you remove the roughness first, before delving into buying machines and other products.

Well, i worked on the hood last night, and the roughness is gone. Took a video:

HUGE difference

 

[Accumulator]

08SUnburst- Yeah, that sure is a lot better all right! Good job.



Yeah, I'd skip the #7, do a few coats of the sealant, and see what you think. Topping a sealant with wax is a persona preference sort of thing, but I wouldn't do it on that paint myself. Man do I like that color... like a modern-day version of my mom's '69 Charger R/T's paint.

 

[08Sunburst]

08SUnburst- Yeah, that sure is a lot better all right! Good job.



Yeah, I'd skip the #7, do a few coats of the sealant, and see what you think. Topping a sealant with wax is a persona preference sort of thing, but I wouldn't do it on that paint myself. Man do I like that color... like a modern-day version of my mom's '69 Charger R/T's paint.

I definitely love the color of my car, i was very specific when i ordered it that it be that color, and have a 5-speed.



Unfortunately, the day i took delivery, it came with factory installed swirl marks





Well guys, after about 10 hours of working on the car this evening/morning, it is done!



I have made peace with the fact that there are some scratches that i cant get out by hand, and will get out in the spring when its time to do a post winter detail.



Claybar, meg's ultimate compound, and m20 sealant





Onto the pics:

 

[Accumulator]

08Sunburst- Getting good results like those by hand must've been a job of work! I bet you're really happy with how it's looking now.

 

[08Sunburst]

08Sunburst- Getting good results like those by hand must've been a job of work! I bet you're really happy with how it's looking now.

Its absolutely amazing how much better it is!



Im not 100% happy with it, but then again, who ever is.. And for a daily driver, its pretty clean now.



I think next time i have to buff it, if ever, its going to be with a da or rotary though. Buffing by hand is HORRIBLE lol