my first makita experience

ne1buthillary

New member
I bought the pc about a month ago and used it on two vehicles. On my own vehicle SIP with 4" orange pads did a pretty decent job but there were still some scratches that I thought were pretty light that I couldn't remove after multiple applications. The second vehicle was a mid nineties gm pickup with medium swirls and scratches.. this is the one that made me buy a rotary. The pc w/ 4" pads and megs 105 couldn't touch some of the stuff that still wasn't that deep imo.



I decided to get the makita and boy am I glad I did. I detailed my father's '03 f250 the other day since it was in sad shape and had plenty of paint to play with. I've seen him drive this thing through a woods and he dries it with a bath towel if that gives you any idea. I gave the truck a good wash and clay then threw on a white pad and used 106ff at about 900rpm to get a feel for the beast. After I had a handle on the monster I used SIP and stepped it up to about 1200 rpm which did some pretty decent correction. Still left some scratches behind but a major improvement. After about twenty minutes of that I decided to step up to the pfw. all i can say is WOW. The rotary was gliding around like a professional figure skater.. much better than the white pad even. I did some more testing paying close attention to the correction and the heat of the panel. I finished off the rest of the truck with pfw at about 1500 rpm and a mix of sip/106ff. I'd say I removed about 90% of the scratches. Considering the entire truck looked like it had been washed with steel wool before I began it was a major improvement. It took me about 8 hours but I think it would have taken me 12 with the pc with inferior results. I do have some questions though...



Is it typical for SIP and pfw to finish down lsp ready? I pulled it out into the sun and neither myself or two others could see any holograms. Either I had beginners luck or we're all just blind. It looked even better after a coat of DWG and a wax.



What rpm do you run pfw at? I was afraid to go over 1500rpm but the panel was barely even warm.



How long does it usually take for SIP to break down via rotary. In the beginning I believe I was working it much too long.. guess I was still working it like I would with a pc. After I figured out what I was doing it seemed to be done after about 3 passes?



Excuse my crappy photography but here's the before. It looked twice as bad in person.



DSCF0737.jpg






After. Even worse photography but you get the idea. After 8 hours of swinging that makita around my arms were quite tired :waxing:



DSCF0749.jpg
 
ne1buthillary said:
Is it typical for SIP and pfw to finish down lsp ready? I pulled it out into the sun and neither myself or two others could see any holograms. Either I had beginners luck or we're all just blind. It looked even better after a coat of DWG and a wax.



What rpm do you run pfw at? I was afraid to go over 1500rpm but the panel was barely even warm.



How long does it usually take for SIP to break down via rotary. In the beginning I believe I was working it much too long.. guess I was still working it like I would with a pc. After I figured out what I was doing it seemed to be done after about 3 passes?



Excuse my crappy photography but here's the before. It looked twice as bad in person.



Even though SIP/PFW can finish down hologram and compounding haze free, you can normally still amp the gloss up quite a bit by following the SIP/PFW with a good finishing polish/pad. It's not unusual for SIP/PFW to finish down that well, but occasionally it'll leave some marks and holos. It just depends on the softness of the paint.



I don't run PFW over 1,800 RPM, and normally stay around 1k-1.5k. I also only get three passes out of SIP and PFW.



Very nice job, man. :goodjob
 
ne1buthillary said:
I bought the pc about a month ago and used it on two vehicles. On my own vehicle SIP with 4" orange pads did a pretty decent job but there were still some scratches that I thought were pretty light that I couldn't remove after multiple applications. The second vehicle was a mid nineties gm pickup with medium swirls and scratches.. this is the one that made me buy a rotary. The pc w/ 4" pads and megs 105 couldn't touch some of the stuff that still wasn't that deep imo.



Basically the exact same story here. I'm tired of using the PC for correction work, between the melting pads and having to pretty much sit on the machine do make it do any work, I'll be picking up a rotary this week. I'll probably be going with the makita as well, but still have to do a little research before the final decision. Hopefully my results are as good as yours:2thumbs:



One question, what does PFW actually stand for? I know its wool pad, but don't know what that stands for
 
I would suggest buying 4 or more if you decide to go the pfw route. I only had two for this truck and ended up having to wash them half way through. Spurring helps a lot too.
 
I thought I had a deal on pfw pads from TOL, then I read the package and it stated 6.5" x .75" - the ones at ADS are the full 6.5" x 1.0" and they are 3 for 30 bucks.
 
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