Klasse SG................come on in

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gav'spurplez

New member
I ordered some new buffing pads and was thinking about what kind of sealant to get for the upcoming "season"



so, I decided to try SG, since I have some AIO and i have heard / read great reviews about SG.



any tips / tricks for applications and stuff ?? i read that it can be a pain to remove.

who here uses a PC for application ??



i'll be trying it with a pc, and more than likey by hand for my wrangler :cool:





any info on experiences.... etc ..... would be great
 
I just apply it very thin like AIO, IIRC you shouldn't see it after you apply it, thats how thin. Any more and I think you are using too much.



If it is hard to remove I think you can spritz it with some water.



As far as how long to wait to remove, I think the bottle says 24 hours but I have seen people on here do 12 hours or less even.



I have done all app so far with it by hand, but that is just personal preference.



Good durability I thought. Went through a Canadian winter on the prairies and it was still beading a bit in the spring, but you could tell it was time for a new app. I did 1 coat of AIO after clay, then 2-3 coats of SG, with about 18 hours in between coats for time to cure but I am sure you could get away using less time than that.



It seems a lot of people are also using Werkstatts or Poli-Seal/Opti-Seal for sealants nowadays though.
 
take an applicator, spritz it with some water and put a small amount of SG on it. Wipe on, wipe off with MF towel.
 
The way I do it makes it pretty darn fast and easy. I take a microfiber and get it reasonably damp with water, slightly less damp than you would expect it to be if you soaked it and then squeezed the excess water out. I then squirt a decent amount of SG on the MF and wipe it on the car like that. Because the MF is wet the SG gets diluted so it goes on ridiculously thin and easily. This causes the panel to be very slightly damp, and I immediately wipe it off with a clean MF. As my 'clean' rag gets a bit of dampness to it from the water+SG I don't turn to a new section. I keep using that quarter of the towel and I find that helps me ensure I get a nice coating over the entire car. I probably add SG back onto my application towel like two more times after the initial squirt to do the entire car. I don't really have a way to quantify if the results are as good as applying it 'straight', but I've been happy with the results. After my next wash I top the SG with aquawax instead of additional layers of SG just because I have it around... I should probably just layer the SG. Whatever!
 
I apply it super thin, then wait a bit -- for me, the longer it's on, the easier it is to buff off. I've also WIWO'd it, and it wasn't *that* hard to remove fwiw. A damp MF might help any spots that seem tough to you.
 
apply sg by hand and use it thin, thinner you probably imagine, so thin you cant tell if you put enough on



any removal problems and its because you used too much



a slightly damp mf towel will removal
 
I'd avoid PC application. My results were over application and stained trim. Hand application works best. I also follow with a QD to eliminate any streaking.



KSG smells like raw sewage, but 3 coats provides an amazing shine.
 
Do you HAVE to use AIO underneath KSG for it to work properly? That seems like a myth to me. I would think that a product that is marketed as a paint sealant, would be designed to adhere to paint.



Would it work the same if you just applied KSG to clean, freshly polished paint? How could you tell the difference? Beading? Slickness? What would be the test here?
 
The definition of 'properly' is where it matters; in theory, if appplied to a properly prepped surface, SG can last up to 6 months. You don't *have* to use AIO or anything elae beneath SG, but durabilty can be affected if it'd not bonded as it should.
 
Well, you could say that about any product. If its not bonded correctly, then it won't last. And it's pretty obvious that products bond best to a clean surface.



Sounds like the AIO is to make sure the surface is clean before applying the SG. But if you KNOW its already clean, then why bother?



For example, the other day, I washed and clayed my mom's car. Then I used XMT 3 with an orange pad, followed by XMT 1 with a white pad. I worked in the garage the whole time so pollen and dust did not build up on the car. At that point, can I fairly assume that the car was ready for SG. What possible advantage would AIO have in that situation?
 
Less,



Clean is relative. The paint surface may be free from road grime and contaminants, but oils from the polish residue left behind may interfere with KSG (and other sealants that work best on "bare" paint) bonding properly. Or not. It depends on the polish. If you were to remove any leftover polishing oils with a wash, or by a wipedown with a solvent (alcohol, Prep-solve), then the KSG shouldn't have a problem bonding and curing correctly.



That's where AIO comes in. Instead of washing or a solvent wipedown, you can use AIO. It will remove the residual oils and lay down an acrylic base that's compatible with KSG. So, is AIO *required*? Not necessarily. If the polish you use doesn't leave residue or "trade secret oils" behind, then the KSG might bond just fine, and AIO wouldn't be needed.



Rule of thumb: Sealants that cure need bare paint (free from oils) to work properly. How you get your paint to that state (using a polish that finishes "squeaky clean", post-polish wash, post-polish wipedown, or dedicated "compatible" paint cleanser) is up to you.



Tort
 
thanks for the info guys,



would VM leave oils behind ?? i'm going to be using, IP then VM then some WG,

that's my favorite group on my camaro.



but on my jeep, sitting outside, i'll be using the SG. maybe some fpII or IP prior to the SG



how thick is SG ?? thin like WG or thick like CMW ?

if it is like WG or close to it, i should be ok with PC application.

:bigups



how long do you guys wait to remove it ? I usually wait about an hour with WG, depending on how warm it is. the warmer it is, the less i wait,

always giving it 30 mins or so, minimum
 
gav'spurplez said:
thanks for the info guys,



would VM leave oils behind ?? i'm going to be using, IP then VM then some WG,

that's my favorite group on my camaro.
Click to expand...



I would think so. I've never used it; however, it's called Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze, isnt it? So I would assume it would leave something behind like any glaze would.



but on my jeep, sitting outside, i'll be using the SG. maybe some fpII or IP prior to the SG
Click to expand...



Let us know how it goes. I've never used KSG without AIO. I just put it in my mind that if I want KSG, I have to use AIO.







how thick is SG ?? thin like WG or thick like CMW ?

if it is like WG or close to it, i should be ok with PC application.
Click to expand...



KSG is watery thin. I wouldnt apply it via PC myself. I dont even use a dime sized drop per panel, and I apply until I feel that I need to put more on the applicator, since you really cant see SG on the paint if you are using the right amount.



how long do you guys wait to remove it ? I usually wait about an hour with WG, depending on how warm it is. the warmer it is, the less i wait,

always giving it 30 mins or so, minimum
Click to expand...



I have waited for a half hour, and I've taken it off immediately after applying. I had no issues either way. I also put more than one coat on back to back with no issues...even though some people on this board advise not to do that. There's some good info that member foxtrapper has posted on SG layering if you do a search.



HTH
 
Way2SSlow said:
I would think so. I've never used it; however, it's called Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze, isnt it? So I would assume it would leave something behind like any glaze would.







Let us know how it goes. I've never used KSG without AIO. I just put it in my mind that if I want KSG, I have to use AIO.











KSG is watery thin. I wouldnt apply it via PC myself. I dont even use a dime sized drop per panel, and I apply until I feel that I need to put more on the applicator, since you really cant see SG on the paint if you are using the right amount.







I have waited for a half hour, and I've taken it off immediately after applying. I had no issues either way. I also put more than one coat on back to back with no issues...even though some people on this board advise not to do that. There's some good info that member foxtrapper has posted on SG layering if you do a search.



HTH
Click to expand...







thanks for the great post:woot:



i may try it via pc, i ordered 4 in pads, so that may help to not over apply,

but WG is quite thin in its own respect and i love it via pc.



we'll see, the SG will be here friday :)
 
It was the first sealant i used. Used it for a while but not anymore. It is harder to buff off then the other sealants i've used. I'm using the blackfire sealant now and like it much more than the klasse sg. Both good products though.
 
gav'spurplez- Having used both products (but not together), I would *not* expect KSG to bond to VM.



I can't get the super-thin application I want by machine (and note that I do almost *everything* by machine, including most LSP applications), so this is one product I apply by hand.



I get it on the foam applicator by holding it over the bottle's opening and shaking it. That deposits a drop of SG. I move the applicator and repeat until the applicator is just barely (but somewhat uniformly) damp with SG, just damp enough that I'm not rubbing a dry applicator across the paint. I reapply to the applicator the same way, when it drags on the surface of the paint instead of gliding smoothly.



I apply it so thin that I can't see it on silver; I go by feel and yeah, you can tell where you do/don't have SG on the surface (but it pays to work systematically). It takes far less than an ounce to do the minivan.



The longer I let it set up the easier it buffs off. But I use W-O-W-O when applying it to black plastic trim, seems less prone to streaking that way, not that it's a big problem.



I remove with dry MFs (preferably suede-style MFs, often by machine), but I do "fog" the surface with my breath before buffing it.
 
Apply it VERY THIN by hand and m/f applicator to entire car.

Once you're done, go back where you started, grab 2 m/f towels, and dampen one by spraying QD on it.

Start where you started before, wipe an area with the damp towel, then with a dry towel.

Do this for the whole car and it should bond perfectly fine and leave a slick, glossy, "perfect" finish with no streaks.



Like tort said though, make sure you clean the paint after polishing if necessary... I recommend simply wiping KAIO over the entire car by hand.



Also don't use anything after polishing and before KSG... like accumulator said, KSG will probably not bond to anything other than clean paint.



Good luck
 
Oh and I'll be using KSG on my sister's car this Friday afternoon/evening, so depending on where in Chicago you are, feel free to stop by and check the process and results
 
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