Help With My Once Beautiful CL

C

compulady

New member
With the Klasse twins and multiple coats of Pinnacle Wax, my beautiful Silver Acura CL shined like a dream. While not perfect by some of your standards, it was the shiniest car around.



Then horror struct and I was hit by a double tractor trailer who ran a red light. The police officer even noticed how well the car beaded up as it was raining. I now have a new hood, fenders, and bumper. All looks good but they stripped off all of my hard work and it is dull. The body shop says I can't wax it for 3 months. Actually one person told me 1 month the other 3. What I understand is that anything silicone based will clog the pores of the paint while it cures.



Is there anything I can use to shine it up that will not clog the pores of the paint while it cures? Someone suggested that I can safely use a "hand glaze." How do I protect the paint for the winter as I do not have a garage? Any thoughts or suggestions? I certainly want to do what is best for the paint even if it means suffering with a dull car.



Thank you in advance.
 
Some Meguiars glazes are bodyshop safe and suitable for use on new paint, they wont give any protection though.
 
Dull being a relative thing, that statement makes me wonder if your paint shop did you a good job.

New paint does not mean dull paint. If it is just not as shiny as your pampered paint, all is probably good. If it is actually dull as in not shiny, maybe you might want to get an opinion from another paint professional as to the quality of the repair.



Charles
 
The repair was done by the Acura/Honda Collision Center. Since they are responsible for my car as well as fixing and detailing all the new cars, I would like to believe they did a good job. The new paint is probably no duller than the rest of the car which was not painted. It just has no polish or wax on it and that is the look I am used to. When you buy a new car, it has already been waxed and/or polished so it looks shiney.
 
if you need something non-silicone based



your options are pretty limited, FI has no silicones, and their 00 wash is designed for body shop use, but that's pretty much for wetsanding and stuff



give them a call, they're pretty helpful ;)
 
first.. of all if the car is clearcoated it is totally cured in 36 hours...

second.. if it is not clearcoated which I doubt ..you do have to wait

third..the finish should be shiny after a paint job..period

fourth..if you want a silicone free and wax free product e-mail me

fifth...if you want further personal advise ..e-mail me:wavey
 
Yep.



Today's modern paints are catalyzed and hardened within hours, not weeks/months like they once were.



I Zaino'd my 337 front spoiler about 24 hours after it was painted, and haven't seen/had any problems with it. If you're really nervous about it, I'd wait about a week, then go ahead and hit it with the AIO and SG.



Because of the very nature of a 2-stage paint (base/clear), the paint can't "breathe" after it's been cleared; the clear seals the paint. :)
 
As I understand it, while the pait is sealed by the clearcoat, the clearcoat also needs time to cure or settle-in.



I have confirmed that the paint has a clearcoat.
 
yes about 36 hours for the clearcoat to release vapors and moisture..there are technical terms but I don't think it's really important.
 
Interesting....there seems to be mixed feelings on this topic.



I am going to take delivery of my 2003 Volkswagen GTI 1.8T in reflex silver on Wednesday. The thing is, it just literally came out of production. Its not even on the lot yet! Its being shipped over from the factory.



Now, they are going to prep it. I have seen cars they prep, and they do a pretty good job. My question is: Does the paint have to cure since its coming out of production? Im sure its been on the boat for a week or 2. But I am getting mixed impressions from people on the board. I wouldn't think so, because they bake the cars at a much higher temperature to dry the paint then at a body shop and there is no need for it...or does it?
 
jrh382 said:
Interesting....there seems to be mixed feelings on this topic.



I am going to take delivery of my 2003 Volkswagen GTI 1.8T in reflex silver on Wednesday. The thing is, it just literally came out of production. Its not even on the lot yet! Its being shipped over from the factory.



Now, they are going to prep it. I have seen cars they prep, and they do a pretty good job. My question is: Does the paint have to cure since its coming out of production? Im sure its been on the boat for a week or 2. But I am getting mixed impressions from people on the board. I wouldn't think so, because they bake the cars at a much higher temperature to dry the paint then at a body shop and there is no need for it...or does it?
Click to expand...
After reading this thread, the only thing I am still sure of now is that factory applied paint is already cured and ready to wax. Compulady's car was repainted after an accident - that's different.



Personally, I'd still prefer them not to prep it for me, regardless of how good a job they seem to do.
 
I have had my show car (300zx) hood and aftermarket body parts painted. In all instances the body shop recommended that I wait at least 7 weeks before putting ANY type of wax on the car.



I would wait for the paint to completely cure. You can always use a non-silicone based QD like Megs FI if you want to after washing. If you really wanted to put something on it, you might want to try 3M Imperial Hand Glaze.
 
jrh382 your car is going to be well cured and I'm with 4DSC don't have a guy making 7.50 an hour do what you know better. Take it as is, inspect it carefully(you will be excited), and go home and take care of your new baby..them you can't blame anyone else for mars or swirlmarks, etc.:xyxthumbs
 
I'm no expert, but I believe when your car is factory painted, they cure it at a fairly high temperature. This eliminates the need to wait. When you have your car repainted, I don't think they can really do this. I'd probably follow the advice of the guy who actually painted your car. I'd think he'd know best.



I too wouldn't let the dealer prep your car if you can avoid it.
 
Hey, about the paintshop safe glazes, what exactly is the benefit of putting them on new paint? I mean, they don't offer any protection, they will come right off in a rain, so why bother? One of my cars is in for some body work. It isn't one I care much about, so if I can't wax it, oh well. But I was just wondering what can be gained by using a safe glaze on the paint, other than just that you can do it. Thanks!
 
Regarding the clear coat needing to cure; it is catalyzed and hardened as well, plus the majority of bodyshops out there today (if they're *any* good) will bake the clear coat either in the booth or with large heat lamp panels.



Your choice, but if it were me, I'd be waxing it within a week or so.
 
Detailing is an art, and there are as many styles as there are people.



However, I do feel obligated to chime in when there's misinformation that's potentially harmful to others.



The concept of factory vs. auto body shop "baking" of paint finishes is completely different. The factory has the luxury of "baking" the paint at temperatures from 350-450 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature that would otherwise damage a car's weatherstriping, wiring, electronics, plastics, etc.



Because auto repair shops can not use the same thermoset paint process, they utilize catalysts which enable the "nonfactory" paint to cure at lower temperatures. Auto body shops heat cure their paints with infared lights at about 180 degrees.



The advise that you can "wax in a week or so" runs counter to nearly all paint manufacturer recommendations. Why use a wax or sealant on freshly applied non-factory paint? There is no evidence that early waxing protects or extends the life of the finish and you may be harming the slower, catalyst assisted curing of the paint.





Dean
 
Ask the body shop if they baked the paint and what brand of paint they used and then call the manufacture or the paint supply distributor for their recommendation.



Be sure to post the answers, it is information that can be very useful.



good luck
 
Given this information, what is your recommendation? I have heard wait 30 days to polish/wax and wait 90 days. Which is correct?



While I would like a shiney car, my primary concern is protecting and extending the life of the paint. My seconday concern is pampering the car and making it look great again. Realistically, that will probably have to wait until spring as PA will be pretty cold 30-90 days from now unless I can find a heated garage.
 
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