Getting ready to make a large purchase.

Spawne32

New member
Had my car repainted back in september, now comes the task of cutting and buffing. Because ive never done this before i went with the PC 7424xp, ive read the guide in the wet sanding forum about how to use it, now i just need to put my list together on what i need to buy.

M105/205
Compounding Pads
Polishing Pads (PC came with a white one)
sealant
already have megs gold class wax
soap for washing
clay bar obviously since this winter has been ridiculous


been looking at purchasing this...although im not quite sure what colors i should buy to do a whole car, and maybe a whole other car as well

Lake Country 5.5 Inch CCS Pads 6 Pack - Your Choice!

also been looking at megs hyperwash for soap, and mothers clay bar kit.

your thoughts on this?


 
Unless you got the pc from a detailing house the white pad that came with it is not detailing grade. If I remember right it's more rubbery.
 
wet sanding with 3000 grit like the first post says lol
You mentioned reading about it on a web site not the same as saying your going to sand but if you wet sand you need a rotary unless you have a lot of patience because a DA will be very slow removing sanding marks.
 
im wet sanding it with 3000 to remove the orange peel, thats what the painter recommends, thats what im going to follow, i need to get the rest of the stuff required like pads, etc. Just not sure which pads will be effective with the PC to remove sand scratches.
 
3000 grit to remove orange peel ? oyu will be there for a long time. How much orange peel is on your car? Is it barely noticeable or does it look like a Blue Orange?

I would suggest starting with 1500 grit to knock off the edge and re-sand with 2000 to polish it out. If he suggested that fine of a grit.there must not be that many mils of paint on your car. If you had sanded it 24hours after he painted it with 2-3000 grit maybe. but now the paint is hard..................you have a big job in store for you ,using that grit.
 
i posted a picture of one of the quarter panels, you can see how much orange peel is on there, not all that much at all, ill make the determination of whether or not to go lower on the grits, but making sure that i get the proper materials when i purchase is my main priority right now.
 
you might need to wet sand at all...just use a good cutting compound with maybe a Lake Country purple pad. the purple pad is a little more aggressive if oyu don;t want to wet sand
 
Unless the painter put on extra clear coat be careful not to sand much off.
I'm assuming it is BC-CC far too little info to really give good advice.

I wet sand with 1500 then polish out the sanding marks with a LC Orange pad on a rotary but like I said in above post you can do it with the PC but it will take a LOOooooooong time.
 
I agree with cartoys, maybe wet sanding is not in order. I sure as heck wouldn't start my learning process on my newly painted car based on what I read on the internet (no matter the author/source). I think most would agree to start with the least invasive (reasonably) and work from there.

As for buffing pads, check with username AutoGeek and talk to him about the LC Hydro Pads. I've never used them myself, but they do look interesting and might be a good match for what you are working with, and it is a 2-pad system.
 
so you guys think that if the orange peel is minimal i should just use a cutting pad and say...M105? (have a bottle of M85 diamond cut) then polish with M205 and then seal?
 
so you guys think that if the orange peel is minimal i should just use a cutting pad and say...M105? (have a bottle of M85 diamond cut) then polish with M205 and then seal?

I haven't used M105 or M85, but YES if the OP is minimal I would try another method than trying to wet sand an entire vehicle. Another question, is this going to be a daily driver or a show car. That, of course could change my POV. And as Black Bart mentioned above, you need to allow for the appropriate cure time for a repaint. Your painter should be able to give you his idea of what is appropriate.
 
its a daily driver, and its beyond cured now, its urethane base/clear that is baked on in a paint booth for several hours. Typically if its needed they wetsand them almost immediately. At any rate, i wont be doing this until we start getting some warm weather, but im looking at purchasing what i need real soon so...getting the list together and having a firm plan of action is a priority for me.
 
its a daily driver, and its beyond cured now, its urethane base/clear that is baked on in a paint booth for several hours. Typically if its needed they wetsand them almost immediately. At any rate, i wont be doing this until we start getting some warm weather, but im looking at purchasing what i need real soon so...getting the list together and having a firm plan of action is a priority for me.
Having a plan - good. Having a flexible plan - better. :)

Seriously, great idea to forumulate your plan of action, less time wasted. Unfortunately with detailing, sometimes your initial plan is not what gets you to the desired results. The more you do it, the more often you hit the right combination of pads/product, but even after years many of us (I think...I hope I'm not the only one :redface:) who wind up doing something different than what they initially thought. Thus, the reason for doing test spots or partial panels.

Your situation is the reason for my suggestion of inquiring about the LC Hydro pads. They seem to have quite a bit more "range" than some of their other pads. Just a thought.
 
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