FK1000P Vs Collinite 476

M

MaDMaXX

New member
I was just about to buy some Collinite 476 as i need a durable coat for my cars especially through the British winter, when i saw someone had gotten hold of the FK1000P to try.



It looks great and the person testing it, rated it higher than the colly for ease of use, but as i understand it's not been available in the UK that long, no one knows how it compares in the durability stakes.



Question is, you guys have them both, which is best, which do you prefer and why?



Thanks.
 
Have been using Collinite 476/885 on our Honda. Holds up very well through the New York winter, rain, snow, salt, grime etc.



Just put 1000P on my mother-in-law's car. Looks very good. Other have reported it is long-lasting, won't be able to report my own experience for some months.



It did not find that 1000P was much different than 476/88 for ease of use. About the same.



Both are very good products.
 
Also read there is a problem with it getting on trim and staining?



I've got Honda's it would be going on too, has anyone else had any longer experience to be able to compare the two?



Thanks.
 
MaDMaXX- The trim issue has me a little concerned regarding the FK1000P too.



476S isn't all that bad with trim, I even intentionally use it on some plastic trim (usually with a base of 845). I do employ a sorta W-O-W-O method though, to avoid any heavy residue that might lead to staining.



Dunno how 476S would be on your Honda's trim, but it worked OK on the exterior plastic of my Chevy Blazer.



Hard to say which is "better" (scare-quotes intentional)...for one thing, 476S is a wax and FK1000P is a sealant; they're simply different.
 
Hmm, from what i've read, the FK is easier to use, i've been used to turtle wax original in the past.

I'm not too bothered with one being a sealant and the other a wax, assuming the only difference is visual?



Due to the winter, i just want something tougher as it's quite difficult to wax a car when it's needed in the bad weather.
 
MaDMaXX- You won't be unhappy with either product.



FWIW, I *just* finished putting a quick coat of 476S on my nephew-in-law's company car. Quick and easy, but probably not as easy as FK1000P woulda been :nixweiss



I've been using 476S on my winter drivers for years, plenty of protection, but again, you won't go wrong with either choice. You could pretty much just flip a coin IMO.
 
Heh, thanks Accumulator, i kind of figured that either would do, but the 1000P is "new" in the UK and if it's good then i'd like to use it. Downsides are the problem getting on trim and it's not as glossy, though that bit doesn't bother me, i'd wax it over with 50/50 if i want better looks.



Plus sides, it's quicker and easier by accounts, to apply, and i can apply another coat in 20 mins or so with it.
 
FK#1000p will stain certain types of trim if you let it dry,it's best to wipe off straight away.I find that it is easier to remove than collinite#476,but i do not find either product difficult to work with.



They are both very protective,highly durable products.If you are looking for a 'glossy' look,FK#1000p wins hands down.The main noticeable difference between the two is that collinite will 'hide' defects due to it being carnauba based,while FK#1000p will not 'hide' anything.I feel once layered,#1000p will outlast almost everything.
 
Thanks Wise, interesting about the hide info. When you say easier to remove, do you mean normal wiping off or removing from trim?
 
Easy wipe off after 10-15 mins.You can then apply a second layer staight away.The most knowledgeable guy on Finish Kare products is Bence,with luck he may chime in.
 
Hmm ok, what's your experience of getting it off trims or durability?



Would you choose the 476 or the 1000P for a protective coating?
 
I'm using both of them quite often, so yes, flip a coin. They are similar, but with their own flavors. When you build up a few coats, both will protect physically really well.



As for trim, I simply dunno, because I wax in a pretty controlled way, so it is *very* rare that I get some unwanted LSP on trim pieces. I outline the trim first with my app or the machine, so smearing the trim with LSP simply doesn't happen - except where I can. 1000P usually wipes off effortlessly, but it can be used over flat trim. Porous, or old, chalky surfaces can be big enemies though.
 
OK, thanks Bence, it seems that they both do the same thing in the same way, with the exceptions of faster re-coats on the FK1000P and a deeper gloss on the 476.



Guess i'll grab the FK1000P for the re-coat convenience then :)
 
Bence said:
As for trim, I simply dunno, because I wax in a pretty controlled way.. so smearing the trim with LSP simply doesn't happen - except where I can. 1000P usually wipes off effortlessly, but it can be used over flat trim. Porous, or old, chalky surfaces can be big enemies though.
Click to expand...



I'm just *so* spoiled by the way I can use many of my LSPs on trim :D



On trim that I LSP with Collinite 845 (note that is often allows me to then use 476S too, on top of the 845) or the Klasse twins, or UPP Spray, I wonder if I could use something like FK2180 and *then* apply FK1000P :think:



Yeah, I know, just stay off the trim...but on something like the e36 M3 I'd really prefer to *not* have to be all that meticulous about LSP application. And hey, I *like* LSPing my trim better than using ERV dressings.
 
Bence said:
Yes, some polish/LSP combos are better than a dressing...
Click to expand...



And some others are "OMG why did I try that and how will I get it off?!?" I oughta go find a few pieces of trim and play with that FK1000P instead of just wondering about it.
 
Yeah, the E36 M3 is harder in that respect than the regular E36. You guys have the wider strip of textured plastic all around the car. The non-M E36 just has the textured plastic on the front and rear (and I usually pull it all off if I'm waxing/sealing the car anyway) and has the non-porous \ rubbery trim on the doors, so no worries about chalky residue.
 
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