Engine Clean-up - retaining original look.

Midshipexpress

New member
Hi all,
Looking to clean up the engine bay of my 24 year old Toyota. The car has very low miles, so generally the condition of the bay is quite good, but I'm looking to clean up the engine bay and retain the factory look. Does anyone have suggestions? I'd like to avoid polishing because I don't want to lose the original feel.
Would appreciate any advice!
Thanks :)


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APC, various brushes and steam to clean. For a dressing find a water base dressing that is dilutable so you can adjust the sheen to your liking. For the painted parts I like to use a cleaner wax or AIO to clean up and give a little shine.
 
I've used HD Total and a pressure washer on numerous engine bays.  Blot dry or used compressed air.  The Total will leave a very subtle shine.
 
Regulars here know that I'm a real fanatic about engine compartments (among other things), and I've accomplished this kind of clean up many times, usually on very used vehicles that'd never had such areas cleaned before (e.g., the '93 Audi was so filthy that it looked like the underhood surfaces were all spraypainted black when I started).


 


Besides APCs, i sometimes find a steamer helpful, but not as often as I'd expected.   Let the APC dwell for a good long time and agitate it with a brush (preferably one with natural bristles, they seem to rinse clean of nasty grease-crud better than synthetic ones).


 


I do a lot of cleaning with solvents- no rinsing and they really cut through greasy stuff.  ValuGard's New Car Prep is great and it's *VERY* safe.  Keep the solvents off decals though.


 


For the "white corrosion" on zinc/etc. plated surfaces I like Wurth's Rost Off.  There are other products that work well too, but whatever I use I work the surface with something like a brass brush or a ScotchBrite pad, or ValuGard's Bug Pad.


 


I clean black plastics and rubber surfaces with Griot's Rubber Prep (freakin' miracle product) and usually treat/maintain them with ValuGard's FastFinish (if I don't bother sealing them with Ultima's sealant first).  I sometimes treat prone-to-oxidation rubber bits with Wurth's Rubber Care but otherwise I pretty much avoid dressings altogether.


 


Rinseless wash products (I'm currently using Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice) are always handy for areas that aren't too filthy.


 


Painted metal is just like the rest of the car- polish then LSP. For tough-to-access areas I like Garry Dean's Beyond Infinity Sealant.


 


Matte/Satin-finished black metal bits- of all things, I find that Blackfire's gloss enhancing polish works incredibly well!  Even if the parts in question have a little surface rust.  Their sealant isn't bad over top of the polish (which leaves some stuff behind).  If such surfaces are in *really* bad shape (but you're not gonna refinish them), try AutoGlym Bumper Care...yeah, their stuff for black plastic trim!  Sounds weird but it really works well (e.g., I used it on the rusted, nasty hood springs of my Tahoe, and years later they still look OK with minimal upkeep).


 


I mentioned the natural-bristle brushes earlier, and I use a lot of them.  Trick for this application is to get ones that stay a little firm when wet (but keep those off painted surfaces lest they mar). And I use swabs.  A *LOT* of swabs.  I probably go through over a dozen even when just doing a quick maintenance wash, so you can guess how many I use for a big cleanup!


 


MidShipExpress- Your Toyota sounds like just the sort of underhood (and undercarriage too!) project that I go nuts over!  I understand compeletely the look you're after, so if there are any specific aspects of the job that have you stumped, post back and we'll see if I can help any.
 
Thanks to all - especially to Accumulator!

It's unlikely that you're close by, or else I'd have you to a engine and undercarriage detail for me!



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Two products I will tell you to avoid:


OTC Simple Green, even diluted.There has  been SOOO much discussion on the milky-white residue it causes on aluminum, called bloom (it's really an oxidation) that it is NOT worth using or risking on modern engines which have aluminum parts on them of some sort. I know they (Simple Green) makes  an aluminum-safe heavy-duty APC but for its price (available at Home Depot for about $16.00 US), I would go with Meg's Detailer Line D101 APC instead. (personal preference)


The other is Gunk's Engine Brite. It OK for an OTC product, but for really dirty engines, it lacks the punch to remove heavy oily build-up.


Also, it requires a slightly warmed-up engine. I never like working on "warm/hot" engines, except to change oil, and even then I let them cool off to avoid being burned.


 


I must concur with Accumulator about using Q-tips (cotton swabs) for detailing. I go through hundreds of them. Yes, it is extremely time consuming to use them and reach all those seams, corners, cracks, and creavases on a car, BUT it does make for one great-looking vehicle that separates the good detailer (the truly obsessive-compulsive detailer or OCD Autopian) from the average do-it-yourselfer detailer who thinks  "why bother, who cares; no one will see it". Believe me, its part of "Wow- factor" that people notice. Mechanics  have commented on how clean my engine compartment is for a daily driver. I think you can do the same thing with your Toyota.


 


One more thing: avoid using the pressure washer or even garden hoses connected to a faucet to rinse the engine compartment. If you want to rinse it with water, try using a bug/pesticide sprayer filled  with distilled water to do so. A good gallon size sprayer is about $30 US from any local hardware store or greenhouse nursery. The ever-present Wal-Mart sells them. It's a poor-man's version of a pressure washer that you can control the pressure and spray pattern much easier than with a small motor or electric powered electric pressure washer.  Just be careful with the metal wand where you point it and moving it in and out of the engine (like electrical boxes or ECU control boxes) The distilled water is about $1 US a gallon at most grocery stores. You can also use it empty to act as a poor-man's air compressor to blow out water or debris (but the air pressure wouldn't last very long, maybe two or three short burst)

 
 
Lonnie- Good point about the OTC Simple Green.  I don't hate on the stuff the way many do, but I do keep it away from my vehicles.


 


I haven't used the Gunk Engine Brite for ages, but I still remember how it smells (no, I don't think it's awful, I just remember it).  Last Engine Cleaners I used were from TOL/Hi-Temp and Griot's and between the two I'd go with the Hi-Temp (much cheaper).  Gee, been a long time since I used an Engine Cleaner too, I did *NOT* use that on vehicles that were in the "Major Underhood Cleanup Project" category and I got by just fine.


 


Note that cotton and foam swabs come in zillions of different configurations, and the long-stick versions are very handy (but those long sticks seem awfully fragile).


 


IMO keeping the out-of-sight areas clean is part of proper maintenance; I spot developing issues before they become serious (it's been ages since a mechanic told *me* about any needs; I tell *them*).  And I genuinely believe that anybody I want working on my vehicles is gonna be the kind of person who treats a spotless-everywhere vehicle just a little bit better than the average filthy car.


 


On the underhood water topic, I usually do my watering with the foamgun switched to the "rinse" position".  Just regular (but softened) tap water.  Sometimes I use my DI water through a regular spray nozzle, but yeah...gotta avoid certain areas and if in doubt just keep it dry.  I do like your idea of using a sprayer with distilled water...maybe I'll get one and fill it with my DI water some time.


 


David Fermani-  Thanks, [INSERT "...mother of invention" quip about my knowledge in this area].  I've discovered *SO* many "!leave you stranded!" issues before they became serious that I just can't imagine letting such stuff go.


 


MidShipExpress- Heh heh, that'd be one project I might actually take on (note that I'm not a pro and only do my vehicles and, occasionally, one old showcar for a disabled pal).
 
Accumulator said:
MidShipExpress- Heh heh, that'd be one project I might actually take on (note that I'm not a pro and only do my vehicles and, occasionally, one old showcar for a disabled pal).


You might change your mind after seeing the cramped quarters of a turbocharged MR2!





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Midshipespress:


Are you implying that your 24 year-old Toyota is a 1990 turbocharged MR2?? I know some were 1600cc supercharged in the early years and when they changed the body style they made a 2.0 liter.


 


I had a 1985 MR2, no sunroof or rear spoiler. I bought it after going through 2 turbos on an 1984 Mustang SVO (what fun but poor build-quality). The MR2 was (and still is) a poor-man's "Ferrari". I sold it when I got laid-off from my first job. It's one of those cars every car enthusiast wished they would of kept. It did show up in 2000 in the city I lived in (I checked the VIN numbers; they matched an old state license plate registration paperwork I found amongst my records), but it was in bad shape, and an unfortunate (providential?) bicycle accident prevented me from buying it back. It was light-years ahead of the SVO; not as fast, but SOOOO much more fun to drive and build-quality was... well, Toyota; need I say more? I did have a head O-ring problem, but I was MORE than willing to pay for that. It was rock-solid other wise and the 5-speed manual transmission was an absolute joy to shift; even my girlfriend (later my wife)  would drive it. Enjoy yours!!
 
[quote name="Lonnie" post="1437154" timestamp="1400002684"]
Midshipespress:
Are you implying that your 24 year-old Toyota is a 1990 turbocharged MR2?? I know some were 1600cc supercharged in the early years and when they changed the body style they made a 2.0 liter.[/quote]
Hi Lonnie-
I am! My MR2 has the turbocharged 2000cc motor. It's a 1991 model year, but was built in 1990.
After owning a few MR2s of various trims, I found a great original owner car that has less than 34,000 kms (under 22,000 miles). :)

Glad to hear you've enjoyed an MR2 also. You could always find another!


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Midshipexpress:


NO, I do not foresee another MR2 ("Mister Two" as my wife called it) in the immediate future. It's just the economics of my personal situation.


 


On a related detailing note, I did buy a Car Care Kit from the Toyota dealership parts department. I still have it. I used the car wash and liquid wax/glaze on the my red and black MR2. The wax reminded me of TR3 Resin Glaze that is still sold today.  I switched over to Liquid Glass when it first came out. It really looked "glassy" and really rejuvenated the red paint after it began fading from sitting outside 24/7 during my ownership .
 
[quote name="Lonnie" post="1437186" timestamp="1400072738"]Midshipexpress:
NO, I do not foresee another MR2 ("Mister Two" as my wife called it) in the immediate future. It's just the economics of my personal situation.

On a related detailing note, I did buy a Car Care Kit from the Toyota dealership parts department. I still have it. I used the car wash and liquid wax/glaze on the my red and black MR2. The wax reminded me of TR3 Resin Glaze that is still sold today. I switched over to Liquid Glass when it first came out. It really looked "glassy" and really rejuvenated the red paint after it began fading from sitting outside 24/7 during my ownership .[/quote]


Well that's good to know!

The non-metallic Toyota paints of the day, red, black, white, etc. we're single stage and prone to fading and oxidation - especially the red. See my other thread about trying to keep my black deep and dark.


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