Door Jambs? Included with exterior or just interior?

David Fermani

David Fermani

Forza Auto Salon
I’ve seen mixed responses to this.....if you’re just doing an exterior service (wax, polish or correction), are you also doing the door jambs? I’m not talking about a full cleanup with a-tips, but rather a quick spray with degreaser, hand wash and wipe. After all, you’re missing likely leaving residue behind from the outside work you’re doing.
 
I consider it part of the INTERIOR, but that is just me. If you clean the windows and trim panels and add plastic/vinyl protectant to those panels on the door, are you just going to leave the paint on the door edges and the door jams "bare" or the weather seals dirty and untreated. Looks like a "half-hearted" job and effort on the detailers part to me. The paint and seals of the door jams and the paint and seals on those door takes some time to correct (paint) and clean (seals) and then wax/seal/coat them (paint) and protect (seals). To me, seals are one of the most overlooked parts of detailing by most novices and inexperienced detailers because they do require some time and effort to clean and protect properly, including trying clean the folds and channels in seals. A lot of dirt and debris can get trapped in them if they have not been maintained. The same with door hinges. They tend to collect a lot of dirt because they are not cleaned with APC or degreasers and brushes and/or swabs. One aspect of cleaning and protecting both jam and door paint and seals is that once I have done it, it is MUCH easier to clean and protect the next time someone returns that vehicle to me to be detailed in the future. It is just the inordinate amount of time and effort spent in that initial cleaning that most vehicle owners question me on. I just think it is the portal or window to the interior that detracts from a very clean interior if left untouched and not detailed. Then again, it depends on the amount of time that vehicle owner has allotted me to clean an interior and if they want their jams and seals cleaned and protected, and they are charged accordingly. It is much different if someone wants a quick vacuum-and- wipe job (2 to 2-1/2 hours) than someone who wants a thorough cleaning (vacuum, wash/shampoo, & apply protectants to vinyl and/or leather) of the entire interior, including the door and jam paint and seals (8-10 hours).

One way to sell the need of detailing the door-and-jam paint and applying protectant to the seals/weatherstripping is if the vehicle is driven in the winter, it mitigates the possibility of freezing of the doors when snow melts in the jam. Anyone who has had a door freeze shut in the winter time know the difficulty it can cause trying to get into your vehicle on an icy, cold winter day. The same could be said of engine hoods as well. I wax my hood paint and apply protectant to hood seals for that very reason, as well as lubing remote release cables and latches. You cannot jump-start the battery in most vehicles if the hood is frozen shut or the cable doesn`t work.
(Yes, some batteries in vehicles are in the trunk or under the second row of seat foot wells,like GM`s Traverse/Acadia/Enclave/SRX)

How many vehicle owners have a detailer thoroughly clean the trunk in sedans?? I can tell a lot about the vehicle`s life and maintenance if I take out the spare tire and look at that area. I`ve come across fine dirt and silt in one, telling me that the vehicle was either in a flood or had been driven in a deep river and gotten stuck. MOST temporary spare tires I`ve taken out to get at cleaning that spare tire storage well area usually only have 15 PSI in them, which would render then useless as a temporary spare in an emergency flat tire change. I do inflate them to 60 PSI before they go back in. Another overlooked item by most vehicle owners.
 
I do them with the exterior. I have a truck that I do every year, and the owner always tells me not to do anything with the interior. I just can not leave the jambs looking crappy when the outside looks so good.
 
I hit them with exterior degreaser and pressure wash then towel dry and interior only details. I try to stay away trunks and engine compartments and the crap that gets stuck in those drain/sealing areas
 
Earlier on, I would just wipe them down with a damp mf towel. On last last car 2007 Audi Allroad. I cleaned them thoroughly and applied a sealant - WG IMFK. Makes cleanup a breeze and offers protection. Will do at least that with my new car.
 
I always clean all the door jambs, use a good Meguiars low foam cleaner at 6:1, and then Steam the front jamb door hinges, the lower hinges are especially full of leaves, dirt, crap, etc... Just stay away from the door hinge grease, and you will be fine..
The back of the door jambs, all door edges especially the bottom edges, and the middle jambs all get cleaned and wiped down...

It all has to match... If you do stellar work on the paintwork and then open the doors and see all this crap on these Jamb painted areas, will that not catch anyone`s eye???

And yes, the entire trunk - everything comes out (remember how it all goes back in), get all the dirt out of the spare tire well, etc., if it is possible, and vacuum the heck out of it.. A nice wipe down with an Apc makes it all look new again sometimes !

And yes, like Lonnie, I always remove the spare, clean it up, and air it up again.. I have never found a spare tire that is much higher than 15psi or so... How good will that work when you need it on a rainy, snowy, night???

The last part is that long big piece of carpeting... Same thing, vacuum it, you already have the Extractor out, so spray Apc, brush it in, Key the Extractor to rinse and remove all the dirt and water out...

Engine and compartment, underhood (be very careful if it has insulation, stay away from it), gets degreased, pressure washed, blown out with my MetroBlaster, let it dry as long as possible outside and then in it goes.. The next morning, spray your favorite plastic conditioner all over that engine and she also looks new again!!

New vehicle ! Inside and out !

For me, it All has to Match... :)
Dan F
 
I`ve only done a few paid jobs for close friends and a handful of freebies for friends/family, but I`ll always at least wipe down the door jams and the area around the trunk/hatch as well when doing any exterior wash.

The tipping point for me was an SUV I washed once where upon giving it a nice flood rinse before drying I notice muddy water flowing out of a couple places around the base of the rear hatch. I discovered the drains on the roof channeled water through special voids between the rear hatch and the frame around the rear opening. I think one of my own cars had something similar by the B pillar. If that area is dirty, any water flowing through it turns to mud an makes a really unsightly mess. Either on your nicely cleaned exterior work or when the owner opens that door/hatch.

Ever since, I`ll open all the doors and hatches for hints and wash them accordingly. Some simply take a wipe down with a WW while I`ve had others so dirty I`ve gently used my wash mitt from the bucket followed by a WW to clean, but not get water/soap in the interior.
 
I always wiped down/cleaned the door jambs and all metal parts of the doors including the bottoms which no one even sees. No matter if it was just a wash & dry it was part of my regimen. As mentioned above opening the doors to a clean car and seeing them full of yuck is no bueno. Leaving them dirty or charging extra is poor workmanship/price gouging in my opinion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top