OK, first the disclaimers.... I'm an amateur detailer only working on my own vehicles and an occasional family member (or helping a friend with labor to do their car -- they have to sweat with me to get an appreciation for what is involved). My hat is off to you guys that do this for a living. I can't believe how you take some peoples disgusting vehicle and bring them back to life. This is back breaking, tedious work. I learn a lot here mostly reading and very occasionally posting.
Here are some pictures of my 11 year old Impala SS. I'm getting ready to sell it (time to move on to other projects) so I'm going through the car top to bottom to get it sale ready. It is factory original paint.
My goal has always been to keep the car looking near stock. Walk softly and carry a big stick. The drivetrain is a 396 cubic inch LT1 mated to a very well built stage 3 vacuum modulated 4L60e. Dyno verified 440HP at 6K RPM and 525 lb. ft. torque @ 2.5K RPM at the crank. Runs mid 12's (12.5 repeatedly pretty much any day at the track) in full street trim (only change is Nitto drag radials on steel rims -- and the tires do 180 degree rotation on the rim on launch
they need to be screwed but I don't race much so I never bothered).
Anyway, to the prep...:waxing:
Hood shot looking down at the top of the hood
This is a shot into the rear left door.
Similar to above but included the rear door handle as a reference.
Gratuitous engine shot :chuckle:
Here are some pictures of my 11 year old Impala SS. I'm getting ready to sell it (time to move on to other projects) so I'm going through the car top to bottom to get it sale ready. It is factory original paint.
My goal has always been to keep the car looking near stock. Walk softly and carry a big stick. The drivetrain is a 396 cubic inch LT1 mated to a very well built stage 3 vacuum modulated 4L60e. Dyno verified 440HP at 6K RPM and 525 lb. ft. torque @ 2.5K RPM at the crank. Runs mid 12's (12.5 repeatedly pretty much any day at the track) in full street trim (only change is Nitto drag radials on steel rims -- and the tires do 180 degree rotation on the rim on launch

Anyway, to the prep...:waxing:
- Washed twice using Meguiar's Gold Glass (two bucket method using a Costco microfiber mitt)
- Clayed entire car using 3M clay and GC and water as the lube
- Presta Chroma Ultra Cutting Creme, wool pad, Makita circular
- Presta Chroma Swirl Remover, Ardex yellow foam (medium cut), Makita circular
- Presta Chroma 1500 Polish, Ardex blue (soft polish) pad, UDM orbital
- Washed twice using Meguiar's Gold Glass (two bucket method using a Costco microfiber mitt)
- Jeff's Workstat Prime Acrylic applied with foam pad
- Jeff's Workstat Acrylic Jett applied with foam pad
- Waited 2 days and washed with P21S bodywork (two bucket method using a Costco microfiber mitt). The car was uncovered in the garage and pretty dusty
- Second coat Jeff's Workstat - this time I went with Acrylic Jett Trigger (I like the non-Trigger better. I find it easier to work with) applied with a foam pad
- All exterior glass and rubber around the glass cleaned with KAIO
- Rubber trim treated with 303 Aerospace Protector
- Tires cleaned with Maxi-Clean APC (CAR Products) and dressed with
Eagle One Wet Tire shine applied with a foam tire wipe
Hood shot looking down at the top of the hood
This is a shot into the rear left door.
Similar to above but included the rear door handle as a reference.
Gratuitous engine shot :chuckle: