OK, EX-P experts

G

Gonzo

New member
I bought a bottle of this "pure sealant" (I know that is "fightin' words to the KLASSE-aholics out there [myself included]), but I want to have it in my arsenal for light colored to white vehicles (my understanding the k-twins wimp out here a little.



Please indulge me, I'm an EX-P noob:



(1) Is it layerable, like SG?

(2) What is the cure time?

(3) Is cure time a function of temperature and/or humidity?

(4) Does it work with or against AIO if you apply AIO first (think chemical paint cleaner to get rid of polish residuals).

(5) Do any synthetic toppers work with it? SG?



Thanks for your answers.
 
I recently experimented with EX-P . . . itâ€â„¢s layerable, buff on buff off, works well in hot or cold temperatures, and is very strong. Iâ€â„¢d advise applying an LSP as EX-P is a true sealant in every sense of the word. Apply only to paint . . . I made the mistake of using it on glass and it does not flow well. Prep with AIO and finish with a carnauba. Good luck :xyxthumbs
 
IMO EX-P is not layerable. When I used EX-P on single stage paint I had color transfer on to the foam app. If it can do that how can it layer? I don't get color transfer with SG.
 
Gonzo said:
I bought a bottle of this "pure sealant" (I know that is "fightin' words to the KLASSE-aholics out there [myself included]), but I want to have it in my arsenal for light colored to white vehicles (my understanding the k-twins wimp out here a little.



Please indulge me, I'm an EX-P noob:



(1) Is it layerable, like SG?

(2) What is the cure time?

(3) Is cure time a function of temperature and/or humidity?

(4) Does it work with or against AIO if you apply AIO first (think chemical paint cleaner to get rid of polish residuals).

(5) Do any synthetic toppers work with it? SG?



Thanks for your answers.
Click to expand...



I have only applied it four times so take this response with that in mind.



1) No, not IMO

2) Doesn't seem to matter. I have allowed it to set up for an hour and also removed a section at a time, both ways it worked fine.

3) I would think so, all of my waxes/selants cure differently depending on the weather.

4) I think it works fine over AIO. EX-P seems to be VERY prep dependent. I know ALL LSP's are, but EX-p seems to be extremely prep dependent, IMO.

5) Never tried any synthetic toppers.



NOTE: I answered 2 and 3 by definig curing as the amount of time that is needed for the wax to set up. It just occured to me that you could be asking how long it needs to cure before adding another layer. I have no proof, but I would think 24 hours would the norm.



I hope this helps.



*EDIT* I forgot to add that IMO EX-P is best applied with a PC. It is thick and seems hard to spread. If you do apply it by hand, moistening the applicator will help tremendously.
 
I probably have the most experience with EX-P, since its pretty much my "go to" LSP. I usually do 2 coats 24 hrs apart. Even though you can wipe on wipe off, I prefer to apply let it sit for an hour than buff off. I believe its recomended to let it cure for an hour in hot and humid environments. I've used 1Z PP prior to EX-P and have had pretty good results. Other members and myself have also used it under VM, and I haven't read any compliments. Not to sure about your last question though. When I first started using it my biggest problem was I was using way to much and didn't allow it to cure(in the summer). I know use very little and allow it to cure and have had good results. After you buff everything, I like to do another wipe down with another towel to make sure I got everything.
 
AIO is a good base for EX-P, but VM is better with it IMO.



I have applied 2 coats and it did look better after the second coat. Whether that was layered it just helped to provide more even coverage...that is a topic we could debate for weeks. I was very happy after the 2nd coat...that is what matters most.



I did top it with the sample of EX-P+ I got and that took it up another notch.



I would let it cure at least 24 hours between coats. I waited 1 week between coats but that was due to having to work during the week. I applied the 1st coat with the PC and a finishing pad and the second coat by hand.



You should let it sit for 30-60 minutes before removing; I got this advice from Steve aka Poorboy and it does make a difference. Some people prefer not to use it late in the day as humidity increases. From my own experience I can tell you it is not as easy to remove in high humidity...it is a breeze to remove normally.



I certainly don't think it worked against the AIO when I used it with AIO; AIO is a great base for anything. On silver I think VM looks better, but it may not be as durable. Durability isn't my biggest concern.



It looked great with Signature topping it and I'm sure that most good carnaubas would do well. I don't know about topping it with SG though. The best QDs I have used with it are 1Z Lackfinish and Adam's Detail Spray.
 
1. id say yes theres many people who have layered w/ great results.

2. i only wait a couple of minutes and its ready to go.

3. no se senor

4. works great w/AIO topped w natties or without

5. No but i did topp it once w/ CMW and it looked the same, a carnuba paste is much better.



Good luck on your new LSP BTW if you dont like it I have a 3/4 full HGSG you can trade if you dont like the exp. just fyi
 
1. i don't know if it's layerable like SG, but 2 coats looks good.

2. the instructions say you can either wipe it off after it has hazed, or allow it to sit for 30-60 minutes for a better look. i like letting it sit for a while as it makes it easy to remove, granted you applied it thin.

3. don't know

4. i haven't tried this, but i don't see why it can't work.

5. again, i haven't tried this, but i doubt something like SG would work. if anything, top it with a pure wax like PS21/S100, Natty's, Megs #16.



also remember to not let EX-P get wet or use a QD when it's curing (the time after your wiped it off). i've seen to get better results (longer slickness & beading) when i keep a car with EX-P on it dry for at least 24 hours (more would be better) then when i washed the car within 24 hours of applying EX-P. that's just my experience, it might be different for you though.
 
I'm no expert but I do use EX-P, especially on silvers, pearls and metallics.



1. I don't know if it layers and it really doesn't matter to me anyway because a single application looks really good. Honestly, how do you determine something layers beyond a reasonable doubt anyway? With a sealant thickness gauge?



2. You can remove it immediately. You can wait an hour, doesn't seem to matter in my experience visually or durability-wise.



3. I haven't had any problems on cool humid days removing it after applying it to the entire vehicle first.



4. I haven't used it with AIO.



5. I don't know if there would be bonding issues with other sealants. If you want to use a carnauba topper, I would suggest something with a similarly clear look, like #16, Nattys or S100.
 
I layer it two to three times and find wolfgang DGPS works brilliantly with it



Don't know why people dislike it on glass. It's my #1 glass sealant. A very damp MF applicator pad with a tiny amount applied per window is no problem to apply or remove

Have even put it over the top of a single layer of SG on glass.



When using on paint, leave it on for 2 - 3 hours before removal

My mothers new Ford Territory got a working over with CM clay, AIO and a coat of EXP and so far the paint has good shine and the depth is getting there slowly but surely.



IMO EXP rocks. Absolutely fabulous product.
 
Scottwax said:
1. I don't know if it layers and it really doesn't matter to me anyway because a single application looks really good. Honestly, how do you determine something layers beyond a reasonable doubt anyway? With a sealant thickness gauge?

Click to expand...



When I apply a product and I see it removing paint it's a safe bet to say that it removed the layer of product that was on the paint to.



I tried layering EX-P on single stage paint. Applied first layer and I was getting color transfer on the foam app. Next day QEW the hood and apply EX-P again. I had color transfer on the app again. I don't need a thickness gauge to tell me that the second layer removed the first. The second application had to remove the first if I was getting paint on the app. What other explanation could there be? This never happens when I use SG.
 
Good information, all. I appreciate the comments and advice. My wife has a new Honda CRV grey pearl full of metalflake that is just begging for some attention.
 
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