Make sure I'm not screwing this up

I

iuksob03

New member
I just joined, but have been doing a lot of reading in the past few months. I bought a 2005 Obsidian Black Subaru Legacy Gt Ltd back in october and after a recent wash, noticed a little bit of swirling on the hood. I just want to make sure I have the process down to get this taken care of. I plan on using a pc 7424 in the process.

I've also found two decent size paint chips on the door, but am unable to deterimine whether they are deep enough to just throw touch up paint on or whether I'll have to go through the whole wet-sanding process. Any input would be appreciated.



Here's what I've got so far:



1. Wash (Eagle One Wet Car Wash)



2. Clay Magic Claybar



3. Wash and dry.



4. Meguiar's No. 82 (Do I need something stronger?)



5. Klasse AIO



6. 4* UPP



7. P21S



Anything I'm missing?
 
That looks good to me. #82 is a good starting point, all depending on how severe the swirls are. If #82 doesn't cut it, try #80. What pads are you going to use?
 
I was looking at going with the Sonus SFX pads. Is there a better set to start with? I haven't used the pc yet, but from what I can tell, it's almost foolproof.
 
iuksob03- Welcome to Autopia!



I'd use something a little stronger than the #82, Subie clear isn't *that* hard, but it's hard enough that I'd start with #80 if you're using Meguiar's stuff. FWIW, I worked mine with 3m PI-III stuff- their RC (05933) for major stuff and their MG (05937) for lighter correction. The PI-III MG is as mild as I ever used on a Subaru and it's quite a bit stronger than the #82.



The PC is foolproof in that you aren't likely to do damage, but it's not foolproof in that it'll always solve your problems quickly and easily ;) Plan on taking a full day and have something stronger than the #82 on hand.



FWIW#2, I don't top my UPP; I like how it looks on its own and I like to be able to add more later.



IMO most chip repairs will require some kind of wetsanding (or some other method, such as Langka- ?sp?) to really blend in. FWIW#3 I usually just let the chips go on most of my vehicles and as long as I keep things well sealed I don't have any trouble. I'd concentrate on getting the car generally detailed for now and just keep an eye on the chips. If they're to the metal and start to rust, a drop of rust converter will stop that and provide a primer base for touch up paint.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to pick up some #80 before I get started. I'll try just the UPP for now and if it looks like it needs something else, I'll top it. This is my first new car, so I just want to do everything right to protect the finish.



Any advice regarding the pads? I was doing a little more searching last night and saw the excel pads. Is there really too much of a difference one way or another?
 
cejacobs said:
Any advice regarding the pads? I was doing a little more searching last night and saw the excel pads. Is there really too much of a difference one way or another?
Click to expand...



I haven't used the Excel pads, but I'm confident that you won't have any problems from them. Just use the right (polishing/finishing) one for the job.
 
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